This route is on the left side of the crag in an obvious dihedral. The climbing is very good and I would give it three stars except it is lacking length and location. It starts on the slab and works its way up the dihedral to a weird chimney thing. This is the short but awkward crux. You can traverse diagonally left across a bulge after this to the bolts but it is much better to continue up the dihedral to the fist crack under the roof and traverse left.
Great route with excellent rock and fun climbing.
Protection
Can be climbed on toprope, but a solid directional is needed if you use the bolts near the top. Some jackass put these bolts in so be sure to loop a runner through one or else you will edge load the carabiner. There is plenty of places to set up a gear toprope. Best done as a trad lead. The bottom section eats up nuts and there is a couple large cam placements (3.5 or 4) near the top. Standard rack. ~60 feet?
I forgot to mention that there is one bolt in an alcove near the top. This can be used to get to the bolt anchor below. Otherwise it is a sketchy downclimb to them. - Casey Bernal
Who's the moron that put bolts in on this route??? This was probably my fourth or fifth trad lead, in my first year of climbing (early 1997). I later went back and did it as a naked nighttime (partially drunk) free solo. This is what happens when you get bored during the week as a student at Mines, I guess. Why, oh, why did I come back for grad school?
I have it on good authority that anyone bringing a bolt kit to this crag will be hit struck by lightning.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Sep 7, 2003 rating: 5.6
A fun route up a clean, easy corner. Felt more like 5.6 than 5.7.
A fun route on solid rock.
Lots of holds on the face left of the corner keep the climbing moderate.
By Jeremy Hakes From: Golden, Colorado Oct 30, 2006 rating: 5.7
Someone replaced the anchors! Yay! New TR anchors in place.
By Tim Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Sep 2, 2007
The super secret way to get through the crux squeeze is to find the handhold for your left hand on the left face and move to the left onto the slab, thusly avoiding the squeeze altogether.
Lookout Mountain Crag
RSS Feed
