Once your at the base of the crag, this is the sport line on the right side. The first bolt is a bit high, but the climbing is only about 5.6 to get to it. Nice line that progressivly gets harder as you move up. The crux comes at the small roof and if your feeling a bit bold, you can move through it towards the left, or take the easier way on the the right. Solid holds all the way to the anchors.
Don't fall before that first bolt, it is a ways up. I thought the moves getting to it aren't too bad, but require some careful thought.. After that, it's a cruiser.
If you actually look on the lower face, about 4 feet up from that little scoop type feature, there is a chopped bolt. All that is left is the metal of the actual expansion bolt, but it's there... Hopefully we can get it replaced to avoid the danger of that first runout... because it appears (at least to me) that this runout was not the FA's style of creating the route.
If you have any doubt that you can't make the first few moves, then just toprope the route... the anchors are somewhat easy to access to set up a TR... although it's a little exposed.
Great route to practice slab climbing. Concentrate on feet as there are plenty of little places when you need them.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Sep 7, 2003 rating: 5.9
An excellent pitch of thin-edge face climbing. Big jugs at the roof, which is easier than the face below. Dicey moves getting up to the first bolt, which is way off the deck. Best bet: clip the first bolt on rappel before leading.
Excellent thin-edge face climbing.
A bolt should be added to this route at the start; the first bolt is way off the deck, with 5.7 climbing to get to it.
By Brian Tessier From: Lakewood Aug 12, 2004 rating: 5.9
Gear Alert
The chopped bolt at the start has been replaced. Enjoy!
By Jeremy Hakes From: Golden, Colorado Aug 10, 2006 rating: 5.9
Hooray! Someone replaced the TR anchors! And 2 other bolts have been replaced on this line. The first bolt is a little bit up - seems the crux is at the beginning, except for the small roof. If you fall before clipping the second bolt (which is easier to clip than the first) you will deck.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Sep 28, 2006
[Ed. - a duplicate route was submitted as "5.9 Sport" by Steve Matthys on Sep 8, 2002 with the following description]:
Labled #2 in the beta photo this route is just left of the 5.6 crack. The first bolt has been chopped which makes the first move just that much more interesting.
Use the TR anchors or lead this on bolts. I believe there are 5 bolts on the route, but do not hold me to that. It's been a while since I have climbed it. Drape slings over the roof to avoid pulling the last moves, or just grow some balls and send the small roof.
Lookout Mountain Crag
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