BETA PHOTO: The route follows the corner to the top.
Description
This is the far left face, just left of the left facing dihedral. This is the route that I think the bolts at the top are for. To access the bolts on top of the crag, go to the (climbers) left side to a little alcove where there is one bolt. Use a belay to access the bolts about 10 more feet down on the face. I gave it no stars because there isn't a distinct line on the face to follow. I did almost give it one because there is a lot of interesting climbing all over the face.
Protection
Definitely a toprope, unless you are a hardman in which case you should be climbing somewhere else. Use a short runner looped through one of the bolts, otherwise it will get edge loaded. Some gumbie did the bolt job.
The bolt anchors at the top of this face are horrible. There are four anchors. The top 2 are well back from the face and you would need triple length runners or longer to get your top rope into the right position. The 2 lower anchors, as mentioned in the description, will side load your biners badly. The rock is all scratched up around these bolts, evidence that people are in fact clipping them instead of putting in a sling.
Somebody put chains on the bolts above this face. Although they improve the carabiner side loading problem, you still need to equalize them, otherwise only one bolt is used and the other is not in play.
By Tim Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Sep 2, 2007
The further left you go, the easier the climbing gets near the top. Aim for the finger crack near the top.
By Jeremy Hakes From: Golden, Colorado Jul 11, 2008 rating: 5.7
Just throwing out a feeler here - how would people feel about this being a sport route (bolted)? I think it would be a great route to have 4 bolts or so placed so it could be led from the bottom instead of always TR. There isn't much for trad gear, but it would make a great sport route, IMHO.
I suggest you read several of the comments under the Lookout Mountain main page here. I would not advise adding any bolts to this crag and you might agree after reading other's posts.
Lookout Mountain Crag
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