This is an old route on the left side of the second buttress of Mt Thorodin. It is an eye-catching natural line that appears to have smaller features than it does. It is the obvious early line for the crag. This follows a crack/chimney system that appears plumb to the top. Hike about 1 hour from Panorma Point dropping into the drainage and then angling cross-country to the crag. Addendum: the start can be a bit challenging to determine. Perhaps 1.5 stars?
P1. Follow a R-angling crack/dihedral briefly until you are in the line of the crack/chimney system firing straight to the top. Belay at a tree.
P2. Continue up the R-facing crack/dihedral/chimney system as it widens out. Stem, wedge, jam, squirm out over an improbable-for-5.7 looking bulge and gain a small ledge that used to have an angle for an anchor. Big gear for an anchor.
P3. Continue up the crack/dihedral to the top with easier terrain.
Walk off left and back the the base.
Note, a pack on the back may prove challenging to climb with.
Protection
Standard rack (nuts, a few larger hexes, single set of cams), 60m rope nice.
By Mark Nelson From: Coniferous, CO Jun 19, 2006 rating: 5.7
I did a 60m up slabby stuff to the start of the natural line (did not stop at the tree), then 30m just below & left of the chimney crux under a cool & airy overhang, then 30m to finish. Used pro to 2.5". Doubles of yellow, red, & purple Aliens, three large nuts & a couple small nuts, singles of Tech Friends in the hand size -- large pro not needed if you set up belay before the chimney crux; this route does not need a full rack, it has a lot of flares.
Climbs similar to the Staircase in 11-Mile, while Staircase is a much better climb, the scenery on Thorodin is outstanding. I thought there were 2 short 5.7 sections which were at the start of my second and third pitches respectively, the rest was 5.5ish.
By Tim Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Jun 9, 2007
You can get in line with the huge, main crack a variety of ways. We came in from the left over slabs with cracks and flakes. At the last pitch there is a little roof with a possible squeeze through underneath it if you are so inclined. The main crack gets very wide at this part, but there are smaller cracks that take gear to your right in your face at the roof.
By Eric Schmeer From: Denver Sep 7, 2008 rating: 5.6
This is a way better route than the Northwest Ridge. Easy to protect, fun lieback at the 2nd, and then the interesting roof/chimney combo on the third. Not much vert, all slab. Outstanding views, great temp, no company.
By John M Brooks From: Niwot, CO Sep 14, 2008 rating: 5.7
Tough to find start. P1-3 : 45,35,35m. Climbed with packs made roof crux toughest spot. Great views. Good variety with slab, crack, chimney, & roof. Good to have hexes.
By rickblair From: Denver, Co Sep 14, 2008 rating: 5.7
Started on crack at dead tree, on the way up I noticed the crack to the left looked better/cleaner. I saw some webbing around a tree on that route so maybe someone used that for a rap route. I could almost give this 3 stars for the scenery, interesting climbing and fun approach. The negatives were the circuitous walk-off and the vegetation and lichen on the route. The day I climbed was preceded by a snow fall on the high peaks, the views were breathtaking and I could see downtown Denver from the the top as well! We followed the road east as recommended above for the approach, good advice. We accidentally went too high and above the lower buttress, so... aim for the lower buttress. Even with route finding errors on the way up, the approach only took a little more than one hour. In my opinion the 5.7 sections were the layback crack on P2 and the chimney/roof on P3. If I hadn't had a pack on, the layback on P2 may have been the crux.
Mt Thorodin
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