This is likely the best of the climbing at Golden Gate State Park. There are at least 3 crags here. All are visible from the Panorama Point. These crags are up to 450 feet in height. The rock is decent to excellent granite, generally less than vertical, filled with many cracks. Access is via faint trails or bushwhacking from Panorama Point with hikes to 1+ hours. These are generally west-facing, so you can generally watch the weather come in. The views are pleasant.
This is a sub-alpine climbing area at an elevation of ~10,000'.
For now, the crowds are not here.
From Golden, head N on CO Hwy 93, head W up Golden Gate Canyon Rd to the park, turn R up the road past Kriley Pond and switchback to a gravel road. Follow the signs to Panorama Point. Hike.
Per Lee Smith: instead of hiking directly from Panorama Point, head down the road (east) for about 1/10th of a mile until the crag is due north and then head into the woods. It is much faster than starting right at Panorama Point.
Mt. Thoridin is partly on Golden Gate Canyon SP land. Any new fixed hardware requires park approval on GGCSP land. Thank you.
This is a nice route up the middle of the second buttress of Mt Thoridin paralleling Mr. Misty (to the R). Hike about 1 hour from Panorma Point dropping into the drainage and then angling cross-country to the crag.P1. Wander up overlapping plates of granite up and into a small corner/crack. Place pro high & R. Traverse L across a small slab 5.9. Move up and L to a tree belay.P2. Angle out left with a L-leaning crack with a capping flake of granite. Fire around the flake and lieback up to a...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
RE: the approach; instead of bee-lining, use contouring and target yourself to move around the base of the lower slab (as seen in the above-pic) moving from south to north (the rock-climbing is west aspect) to enter the boulder field; see the cairn fairy appear (we actually did pick up the faint trail). Use countouring to get back to Panorama Point, I found the hike an enjoyable short wilderness experience and free of loose scree/talus.
By Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Jul 16, 2007
From right to left in the beta photo you have the First Buttress, Second Buttress, and Third Buttress. The formation between and in front of the First and Second Buttress is Thorodin Slab.
Instead of hiking directly from Panorama Point, head down the road (east) for about 1/10th of a mile until the crag is due north and then head into the woods. It is much faster than starting right at Panorama Point. We had the whole place to ourselves all day on a Saturday. This is really a great and lonesome crag. I will be back.
I climbed several routes on the first buttress, roughly 150ft right of Twin Cracks in a left-facing alcove. Hubbel refers to this on p.94 of his Front Range Crags book as "steep, hard cracks in west-facing alcove" but didn't say if they had been done before or not. Anyone climb them before me? There's a pic above which lists all three routes, which go from left to right at 5.9, 5.10b, 5.10c
By Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Jul 5, 2010
Did either a link-up or a new route last Saturday combining the obvious ramp to the right of the start of the CMC route and then found features that led back to the left to a narrow walkway just before the summit ride I named The Paso Del Muerte (always loved that name in Mexican caves). I made a hand-drawn topo but would like to overlay it on a better photo sometime.