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Rumplemintz 

5.10+

   
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FA: D. Montgomery/ M. Sheridan 9-26-09
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10c/d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 65 feet
Season: sunny most of the day
Views: 337 page views

Submitted By: Monty on Sep 26, 2009


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Me at the crux on the FA.


The Skinny! 

This route is a new addition on the left side of Creekside. Makes for a good warm up before hopping on Brennivin, or a fun finish to a day at guppy and fish and chips. It's a fun techy 10d on good rock.

Start just left of the first pitch of the Brennivin. Follow solid black rock right for 2 bolts, step left, crimp over a small bulge, rest, then angle right on solid black rock on some small crimpers (crux) to great jugs to the anchor.

As of now its not a bad idea for the belayer to wear a helmet (some small flakes hear and there), but will clean up very nice with traffic.


Where you at? 

Just left of the first pitch of Brennivin. Approach via Shenanigans, or wade across the creek in low water.


Protection 

7 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Rumplemintz Slideshow Add Photo
Mike near the anchor on the FA.

Mike near the anchor on the FA.

Red is <a href='/v/colorado/golden/clear_creek_canyon/106555187'>Rumplemintz</a> (10d); Blue is <a href='/v/colorado/golden/clear_creek_canyon/106575748'>100 proof</a> (12a) yellow is <a href='/v/colorado/golden/clear_creek_canyon/105758218'>Brennivin</a> variation a (10b/c); green <a href='/v/colorado/golden/clear_creek_canyon/105758218'>Brennivin</a> variation b (10a/b).

Red is Rumplemintz (10d); B...


Comments on Rumplemintz Add Comment
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By WiledHorse
From: NoGo
Sep 28, 2009

KILLER, man! Good work!

By Monty
From: golden
Sep 29, 2009

Thanks Darren, I wanted to call this Rumplemintz to keep the theme of the wall goin' (I hate Rumplemintz).

Mike and I changed our minds about the name when I trundled a large death block after making sure nothing would get hit. Just my luck it hit my hammer, the force ripped off my gear loop, which my drill and hammer were attached to, and sent both flying for about 60' to be caught in a bush virtually unharmed. So, even though this route is called Rumplemintz... to us it will always be known as Drillin' the Bush.

By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Sep 29, 2009

Good job on the route D! Glad your drill made it! Thats a reason I always clip mine to my belay loop on a long leash - just in case....

By mike sheridan
From: golden
Oct 6, 2009

Bosch Out Below!

By rob bauer
Oct 18, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d

Gorgeous day today, and we climbed all 3 pitches shown in the detail photo, right, middle and left (red, yellow & green). Rumplemintz, was the hardest; probably 5.10c/d. I broke off a lot of friable edges, but it will clean up nicely. The middle (regular approach to Brennivin) was psychologically the hardest for me, but I'd agree with the 5.10 b/c rating. The right most variation was the easiest (and delightful!) and struck us both as about 5.10a on that great black rock. (Qualifications: I figure I'm a good 5.10 climber and am 5'8". My partner is 5'3"?) Anyhow, 3 very good pitches: go do them! (We had 11 QD's with us, which was plenty, plus anchors, but I didn't count which ones took what.)