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Mourning Glory
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Belays of Glory (aka "Glory"), proj. 
Sweet Tides 

Belays of Glory (aka "Glory"), proj. 

5.14+

   

FA: D.Mabe, May 2009, FFA: maybe you?!
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.14+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 584 page views

Submitted By: WiledHorse on Jun 16, 2009


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BETA PHOTO: The route goes right through the center of the ove...


Description 

Open project! call in the Young Guns....

I imagine the name could most likely be shortened to "Glory" once it's freed. For now, this is what I named my solo-self-belayed-aided-equipping ascent. (Even though I know this is taboo.)

Start on cool belay ledge, after scrambling a short section of white quartz. A bolt on either end of the ledge intended for a dogline.

Open with an elegant traversing sequence for the first three bolts and then cruise up to the ceiling. 6 draws are hanging from this 35 foot overhanging ceiling. I count about 3-4 hard cruxes. I will leave the rest for you. But I will say that you can expect powerful, dynamic, long moves through the ceiling. The movement on it is awesome. The stone is incredible.

This thing has the potential to be one of the hardest if not the hardest route in the canyon.

EDIT: above rating is an approximate placeholder until it's actually freed -dm

Enjoy and good luck.


Location 

You can't miss it once you are up there.
Scramble 4th class for about 15 feet up a quartz-step to the belay ledge.


Protection 

11 bolts and chains anchor.
Currently I have fixed draws on all but the first one.



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BETA PHOTO: The route.


Comments on Belays of Glory (aka "Glory"), proj. Add Comment
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By Luke Childers
From: Denver
Sep 22, 2009

I think this is the week that I may get a chance to try this line out. It looks really good to me. I will let you know how it goes!!!

By WiledHorse
From: NoGo
Sep 23, 2009

Go get it! The route and belay stay dry in a downpour, trust me....

By Luke Childers
From: Denver
Sep 26, 2009

Hey WildHorse,
It's very possible that today may be the day I try this line!! It's that or Primo Wall at this very second!! Care to join me?

By Monty
From: golden
Sep 27, 2009

Just go do it already!

By Luke Childers
From: Denver
Sep 28, 2009

You got it Monty,
No matter what... "Glory" will be my next climbing destination.....

By Luke Childers
From: Denver
Oct 1, 2009

Got on this line today and found it to be the coolest lines I've seen in years!!! Super hard moves with plenty of pump factor. Only dogged about half way up the line before the darkness of the night forced a retreat but I would not be shocked if this line turned out to be hard 5.14+!!! Crazy man?!?!!
Nevertheless, I feel that "Glory", when completed, will be a top contender as one of the most classic hard lines anywhere!!! It's so good I probably should not be saying anything about this unsent project. Yes, it's that good!! I can't wait to get back to work on me some "Glory."
Once again... stellar eye for a line Darren. Thanks for all your hard work bolting this line.. and just opening it up for all to try. That is just good charisma, man. What a great futuristic route. Defiantly going back A.S.A.P.!!!!!!!!!