FA of Crack a Beer, March 2007. Photo by Adam Pet...
Description
Low angled 5.7-5.8 climbing with inobvious pro leads to a stance (optional two-bolt belay of the Desiderata). Slightly overhanging wide fists and stacks for 20 feet (#3.5 -#4.5 Camalot). Higher up, it eases off considerably, with some jugs and face holds, and small pro options inside the crack. Hell, you could sling a chockstone for complete trad style. Finishes at the anchors of the Desiderata.
Location
If you can't identify this route, then you do not know what a splitter OW looks like. Starts right of Desiderata up a lichened crack weakness and slab.
Protection
Light SR up to #4.5 Camalot. some stoppers. the start protects with a medium sized Camalots. #0.75 or #1 Camalot if I remember right. As well as some Aliens and nuts.
Thanks Darren that looks like fun and knowing the gear makes things easier. How sustained is it and how technical? Cupped hand stacks or hand fist stacks or double fist stacks? Knee lock jambs, heel toe cams, stacked feet? Armbars and thrutching/locking off, with the hips/legs. What should be expected as I haven't lead a 5.10 OW really. Although I made it up Cupcake at the Voo, but it seems skinnier maybe.
Can't give all the beta away... ;) but looks like youre on the right track. The gear beta should be an indication of what techniques you will need. It's really not that sustained. Go do it! I am not much of an o-dubb guy, and I flashed it, if that helps. Besides, I have only been on it once, so rating is approximate until it has seen some more ascents.
Just out of curiosity how does one get a FA that was a FLASH? (oh I think I get it, you rapped the line and scoped it first hu?) I was confused for a minute there.
Yeah, I wouldn't give myself the onsight because I peeked at it when I bolted The Desiderata.
By Shawn Mitchell From: Broomfield Jul 22, 2009 rating: 5.10+
After a slip getting started, I fired it, but... My strategy was sinking the right arm for very deep palm-up fist jams in the limited constrictions, and a relentless gaston off the left edge. Fine on top rope, but probably impossible to reconcile with the demands of placing and climbing past gear.
I thought this was a challenging ow. I would recommend 3 4.5 size cams, although if you feel comfortable with that size 2 would work. I have small hands and so fists did not work. If the 4.5 size is a problem for you then this is a great one to work on that size add the overhang and it is a tough workout. It definitely is easier for someone with bigger paws. I clearly missed the boat on this ow and I love the ow.
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