This route climbs friable edges just to the right of Reefer Madness. The moves are interesting, the crux sequence included, but a bit scary feeling the key holds flex. In addition certain footholds are very likely to come crumbling off if used. Recommended finish is to merge with Reefer Madness at its last bolt rather than climbing the bolt protected bird shit and bird home crack. Gave one star for the interesting crux and continuity gained by climbing the top of Reefer Madness, just find the solid footholds before cranking through this one.
Protection
6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor (shared with Reefer Madness). Possible to use small nut to protect easy climb to 1st bolt. Belay off large eye bolt.
How about something below the first bolt, either a real belay anchor or a bolt? The climbing is easy but the potential fall is fatal for both belayer and leader. Considering how closely bolted the rest of it is, it seems irresponsible to leave it in its current condition. Alan, what do you think?
By Matt McMurray From: Castle Rock, CO Aug 10, 2006 rating: 5.11c R
I found this route to be much better than the credit it has been given. Fun cruxy moves throughout, with the choice of pulling the roof or following the crack... albeit wiping away a little bird shit along the way! =)
By Jeremy From: Boulder, CO Jun 8, 2008 rating: 5.11c R
I think this route is almost as good as Reefer Madness. I had my belayer anchor to the steel "ring" until I got to the first bolt.
I did the same thing as Jeremy. I anchored myself to the large eye-bolt until Dan was clipped into the first bolt. It's easy climbing, but if he fell before the clip, we'd both be dead right now, splattered on the rocks way down below. I tried this climb and couldn't make it past the first 1/3. Of course, I don't climb anywhere near the .11s. There was a lot of bird dookie on this one and birds buzzing my head the whole time. I finished by penduluming over to Reefer Madness since I was on TR.
Wall of the '90s
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