EDIT: actually is named .30-06 and the right crack is Roadrunner.
This is the left crack of the two classic crack routes on the far right side of Wall o' 90s. The route is typically done in one pitch although breaking it up into two can lighten the rack if it's your first time on it. (about 110' total)
Work up a few crack systems of varied sizes (.10-), with several rests to the optional pin cluster belay. Back up these pins, because they are between a few scary blocks (and they are probably 30 years old...). There used to be a webbing nest at these anchors for rapping, but I removed a couple of the loose pins awhile ago, along with the webbing and would not recommend using this anchor as a rap anchor.
EDIT: no fixed pin-tat-bail-anchor as of 8/6/08.
Traverse left underneath the big roof and fire up to the crux. (FYI, from the stance underneath the roof, you can escape left to the top anchors of Black and Tan.) The sporty crux (.12a) is protected by a few pins and then continues up the *steep* crack (.10+/.11-) thin hands, hands, fist. The pin at the crux held several of my falls, and was backed up by a bomber nut. The route ends at a two bolt rap anchor (where the three bad pins and UV-eaten sling used to be -- replaced with consent from FA). You can BARELY rap back to the ledges with a 60m, although I would suggest lowering eachother.
I give this route 3 stars, because there is not many other harder, trad lines in Clear Creek, other than Brennivin and Naked Kill. I think other climbers would agree that this is the CCC of CCC ('Country Club Crack' of Clear Creek Canyon).
Protection
Set of stoppers (#6-#12), Set of Aliens, #0.5, (2)#0.75, (2)#1, #2, #3, #3.5/#4 Camalots, couple hexes. Several old pins scatter the route, clip them with caution. QDs, runners. 2 bolt rap anchor. 70m rope.
Historical note: Steve Weaver and I aided a line on this wall (Roadrunner, I believe; possibly the FA) on July 20, 1969 -- the day Neil Armstrong first stepped on the moon. I like the "Wall of the 90's" name, which for me carries a bit of hidden humor.
I'm pretty sure the left-hand crack is Roadrunner. The roof above the slings goes at 12a and the handcrack above it is easier (although pumpy after the strenuous crux). I don't know what the rt.-hand crack is. They're the best lines on that wall though, in my worthless opinion; everything else is kinda weak and overgraded.
I think that the names Road Runner and 30.06 are reversed. I was with Jeff Achey (around 1980) when he free climbed what is now considered to be Roadrunner. He called it 30.06 because somebody was shooting a rifle nearby while we were climbing. Jeff lead it without trouble and called it 5.11. The crack on the right used to be called Roadrunner (now called 30.06) was climbed often in the 70s and 80s. These routes are both great regardless of what you call them.
Last night I removed the bail slings and a 3 bad pins of the 4 they were connected to. There is only one pin there now. It is solid and had a good ring sound to it. You can back it up with a bomber #8 stopper as well. It is pretty scary this rap anchor was trusted for so long. The ring pin had a crack in it and broke off with a couple hits. The knifeblade was loose and in a hollow sounding block. These pins may be almost 40 years old!
I will not replace these pins; you can get bomber gear in these spots. There does not need to be a fixed anchor at this spot anyway. The route goes well as one pitch (lower off with a 70m from bolt anchors at the top of the crack). If you want to avoid the crux and upper half of the route, you can traverse left under the roof to the Black and Tan anchors.
The protection pins on the rest of the route are still intact and can also be backed up with bomber gear.
Wall of the '90s
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