Batso, climbing superhero, author of Downward Boun...
Description
Pull the bouldery start clipping the first two bolts from jugs on the left, traverse right and balance out onto your perch on the arete (the bailout left is fun too), find the pockets and mount the bulge to reach the anchors. Beware the bat.
A little awkward for most of the route, follows 3 distinct features for only 1/2 of their length then the climbing ends abruptly. Still dirty and looks like several holds will come off with traffic. There could definitely be a direct start thru the steep rock into the arete.
The start of this climb is definitely the crux; however, getting out onto the arete is also tricky. I felt that this was more like a 5.11- than a .10+. Great climb though!
By Eric Schmeer From: Denver Sep 11, 2008 rating: 5.10b/c
I loved this route. Fun beginning with a few strength/reach moves, traverse to the arete, then an awesome and well protected move to get going up the exposed corner.
I had the pleasure of meeting the man responsible for this route last time there--many thanks should go his way for putting this great wall together. Thanks Kirk (and I did nail it clean on my 2nd try!)
Interesting and imaginative line! Moves getting to the arete are memorable and fantastic. Finishing jug haul is a hoot.
By David Houston From: Boulder, Colorado Nov 3, 2008 rating: 5.10c
Very nicely bolted, thanks Kirk! The start is very bouldery; I'm sure I could work out a much smoother sequence with repeat ascents. I went too far right, then too far left and made it much harder than it needs to be. Getting on to the climb is the crux!