Made In The Shade 

A 70 meter will not get you on the ground. It takes you to the third bolt where you have any easy downclimb to the the climber's left side. It would be better to take 2 sixties and rap the route.

Maybe my 70m rope is a bit longer, but I made it to the bottom just fine with about 6 inches of rope to spare.

This is a really cool route. The crux, and the slab above have a nice flow. Super well bolted, we often found ourselves clipping draws at our waists; however, it is very well suited to someone looking to lead their first .9+...as we all thought the route to be due to the sustained nature of the beautiful slab. Nice and long warm-up, especially when led with two 60s. Young Doug.

A 70 meter rope will work just fine. But it is EXACTLY the right length. Any shorter and you're going to have to downclimb.

This is a really fun climb. Is it the longest in the canyon? It is the best warmup. I'd climb it any day. Great work Kirk. I love it!

No, not the longest.

Very well bolted, a very good climb for a new leader.

Lowering my partner, I reached the (knotted) end of the rope when her feet were just above my head and I had to climb up a ways so her feet could touch the ground and she could unweight the rope and untie. Being quite a bit heavier, I got to the ground on rope stretch.

Excellent climb. Sustained in rock quality and climbing. Cleaning will help in quality and ease the difficulty a bit.

I echo the comments about a 70m rope being short. I came up short, and even though my rope has lost a meter, it is longer than 115' to ground. 70m = 230' , or 115' rap with one rope. If it is a 125' climb, then you will be short with a 70m rope.

I would certainly support a belay/rap to make it a 2 or 1 pitch climb.

Fun climb. Bolted well for the grade. 13-20 clips depending on your comfort level. Thoughtful clips, though, to protect ledge falls. My 70m made it. The route could have stopped at the ledge at the second to last bolt, then everyone's rope would make it. No complaints, though, fun long route. The jugs in the middle were a hoot.

Wow! I must have missed some holds..I hate it when you offer up a grade, then everyone comes along and...anyway, still a nice climb! Peace Young Doug

A really fun pitch with a bunch of 5.9 moves. Well bolted for a 5.9 leader; more advanced climbers may be comfortable skipping a few clips.

My 70m rope (Mammut Infinity Duodess) was not long enough to lower the leader to the ground; it came up about 20' short.

There is a good ledge about 15 feet below the top anchor; I think it would be a good idea to install an anchor here, to allow lowering all the way to the ground for those of us with shorter or less stretchy 70m ropes. The last 15' of climbing is fun, but I think a lower anchor will improve the safety and reduce the hassle factor of the climb.

The halfway point of my 70 was hanging around the 3rd bolt when my partner hit the top. It is all about stretch, mine made it right to the bottom, others won't. Still, not a scary downclimb... or even drop right off the end if you're not too far up.

New, lower anchor compliments of Bruno Haché. Thanks Bruno.

Great beginner lead! Really well bolted and mostly straightforward moves! Some spots require a little thought! New bolts allow for a 60 and 70 meter to get to the ground...route requires about 22 draws or you can skip some of the redundant bolts if you feel comfortable!

A fun and mellow route with interesting features and positions. A bit obnoxiously overbolted, but, oh well. The existence of the second set of anchors I regard with a bit of confusion and concern. For one, the remaining climbing from anchor #1 to anchor #2 is far from remarkable. But more importantly, lowering from this second anchor with a 70m will get you to the ground only with extreme attention and caution on the part of you and your belayer. Even rope stretch and tippytoes won't get you quite to dirt. To me this is a major shortcoming, considering there are more inattentive sport climbers in the world than there are 80m ropes going around. It is a matter of time before some morons get hurt here.

A really fun climb! Steep after the first few bolts but not too pumpy. Thought provoking.

Fun and interesting route. You are never longing for a bolt. There seem to be 2 cruxes, one just past halfway and the other just below the new (first) anchors. You get your money's worth - a 60m rope just gets you to the ground (10 inches to spare from lower anchors). Thanks, Kirk.

Heads Up! My buddy and I climbed this today and concur it's a fun route, but as he was working up the very first moves he pulled on the hanging flake mentioned in the route intro above and a big chunk popped off. We were pretty surprised since the piece was probably 3-4" thick, it looked pretty beefy up to that point. The heads up is that on closer inspection the lower part of the flake looks a bit rotten and I suspect it also could pop off resulting in a potentially nasty ground fall on lead. Just fyi.

A bit overbolted for someone solid, but I just skip the unneeded ones. Great for new leaders to push hard, and it's fun to have those areas for them. Nice and sustained but with plenty of rests to milk if you want and good footwork keeps it from being too hard. Be very careful lowering off this route, make sure your belayer knows what they're doing.

I counted 17 bolts to the 60m anchor. Overhang at the bottom is a fun alternate start maybe 9+.