Gear used 2 #1 Cams, 2 #0.75, and 1 or 2 #0.5 cams. I also used one quickdraw. A little mungy after the bolt. A better alternative maybe to clip the last 2 bolts on Gondolier Arete to finish the route.
Excellent route, I'm so glad it wasn't bolted, there is one bolt at the top you can use or just place a nut. Great dihedral. Great moves all the way through to the top.
Route Canal to the last two bolts on Gondolier Arete is a three star line, IMO (Gondolier Canal?). 5.8 liebacks or crack climbing leads to an obvious, easy traverse into the crux section of the arete. Protects well with medium cams (#1.25 - 2.5 Friends).
By Steve Knapp From: Highlands Ranch, CO Sep 13, 2008 rating: 5.9
This can be done on toprope using the same anchor as Gondolier Arete after someone has led it. Super fun crack in a dihedral. Would be a very nice lead.
By Eric Schmeer From: Denver Sep 17, 2008 rating: 5.8
Jam, layback, or stem... user's choice. A fun route that can be done many ways. Nothing too big for gear.
Bolt at the top works as a good directional to TR from the arete route. Fun and somewhat similar to the 5.7 crack route on Lookout Mountain Crag. Hollow flake midway makes for a questionable first gear placement.
The Canal Zone
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