This is a fun arete route that switches sides back and forth a few times. Start out with some fun overhanging 11c moves on jugs. Then move to some good vertical face climbing followed by interesting slab moves. The crux is near the top and is pulling a little roof/bulge on pretty thin holds. Challenging sequence to find, but a great one to figure out. Another Clear Creek classic.
Protection
16 bolts / 2 bolt anchor. 60 meter rope reqiured to lower off and it is a stretch so tie a big knot in the end before lowering.
When I bolted this line, I tried to use the gear that Kurt Smith had originally placed. This was restricted to the last section of head wall. The anchor was his, but was reinforced with 1/2 inch bolts. I would agree, that as is often true of Clear Creek, the rock can vary from excellent to down right cruddy on the same route. But, for what it is worth, it is nice to have routes that those Denverites amongst us can jump on 20 to 30 minutes from work. If only it were Boulder Canyon, or better still, Siurana.
I thought this route was great because of the variety of moves one encounters, I wasn't expecting any slab climbing from the ground and thought I had already pulled the crux when I finnaly reached it. The excellent bolt job on this route was greatly appreciated, especially when I came flying off the crux!
Excellent line. It makes you think and is much more sustained than Curvaceous. I would say it's two letter grades harder than Curvaceous. Roof moves, arete climbing, a couple slabby sequences, definiteive crux followed by pretty sustained face above all make for a superb line. I just wish I could have done them all without falling. Maybe one day.
Added lowering hooks to the anchor of this route, now it is quite nice to just clip and lower off.
By desbien From: denver,co Dec 4, 2007 rating: 5.12a
Nice line. I kept wanting to fight going left at the slab, but just give in. The rest is endurance. Technique wise, I don't think the cux is up high, maybe a pump crux.
How far do you go left at the slab? My partner stayed on the arete as where I basically palmed the arete with my right hand while standing up on my left foot on the blob. I saw a lot of chalk on something left which wasn't anywhere near curvaceous so I figure it's for this climb yet it's pretty far off the bolt line, anyone go up that way?
Fantastic line - Curvaceous had been my favorite at CCC until I got on this. So much going on with such a great variety.
Wall of the '90s
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