Chris Lockyer leading the route - at the dihedral ...
Description
Take the bolt line that travels just left of an orange streak the passes up a small left-facing dihedral. Crux is exiting the dihedral and getting over the rounded top of the rock.
Protection
10 bolts to a 2 chain anchor. Shares the anchors with Footloose
Unlike the 5.9 across the river (Vapour trail - Red Slab) this is a good route for beginner 5.9 leaders. It was my first 5.9 lead and I enjoyed it tremendously. The 5.10a next to it (left) is also a safe lead (my first 10a lead).
A really good line! After climbing this a few times and watching others; I am noticing that there is a tendency to go right at the top of the flake and semi-mantle over the lip - this leaves a long reach left to clip the bolt - I toyed and found that the climb can go in a plumb line with the bolts over the upper lip; however, it is a reach to the 2 finger crack for your left with thin feet, but it sets you up to clip at eye level, both moves, either straight up or jog right, gain the lip and are tricky - try it - Great climb, always busy!
Good line, maybe a little stiff for Clear Creek 5.9. I remember those Red Slab lines as being a bit runout for sport climbs. I tried the crux 3 ways, left is definitely harder, straight up and right a little is the easiest and still allows one to clip the bolt, manteling to the right is not as hard as left, but harder than the center line.
On the topo above, the routes are: 7: Footloose (5.10a) 6: First Impressions (5.9) 5: Eiger Direct (5.11d) 4: Radometer in the Red Zone (5.11b/c) 3: Too! (pitch 1: 5.10d) 2: Nordwand (pitch 1: 5.10c) 1: Natural Selection (5.11a/b; long rope required)
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Sep 11, 2005 rating: 5.10a
A great pitch with lots of good moves, but it's a sandbag at 5.9; the crux at the top of the corner is more like 10a and is tricky to figure out.
By Charlie Fried From: New York, NY Jul 16, 2006 rating: 5.10-
Crux felt a lot harder then a 9! I went right is that the correct way, or did I make it harder for myself?
I agree with Ron, although I go to the left at the crux instead of to the right or center. I'm told that, if you go right, there's a thin, unmarked crimp that's hard to see. So I can't speak to that variation... but going left is a tough move for me. The dihedral is a blast, long reaches (I'm 5'-10") for big holds.
I went left (or is it mostly straight up?) at the crux. It seemed like the logical thing to do (you know, stay close to the gear), and it felt about 10a doing it like that. There's a hidden crimper for your left hand to make the move doable. Feel around and you'll find it.
Good climb. Starts out with face moves and then you can undercling and side pull or layback up the dihedral. I exited the dihedral to the right. Take your time and you'll find it. There is a small not so obvious crimp for your right hand to get you out. Just find any crystal or nub for the left hand and balance your way out. Smear the feet. Two ballancy moves and you'll be out. The start feels like 5.7 but gets progressively harder. Great warmup route.
There is a loose horn about 2/3rds of the way up the flake at the top of the dihedral (is ticked with a X). Use caution if you choose to put weight on it. Otherwise, this is a classic nine dihedral. The crux (direct) is pulling the exposed transfer from good feet (dihedral) over a bulge with a hidden crimp to thin holds. You can also go right to an easier walk up. Great warm-up.