Gneiss Roof 

I apologize to Mr. Jimmy Surette for misspelling his last name "Surrette".

Casey Bernal

Fun and exposed route. Not you typical CCC line. It feels more adventurous. The traverse pitch is exciting since none of the bolts are visible until you are at them, but it is safe and well bolted. The roof takes good gear and leads to an exposed stance (bolt) for the crux.

A more direct route jams the roof crack and stays left of the second bolt. Tight hands near the lip, pinches to a finger lock over it. I didnt do it cleanly my first time, but probably is 5.11-. This avoids the original hand traverse out right. Place the .75 cam as high as you can. Though difficult, this variation is more straight forward. Not many roof cracks like that in the Canyon with such airy position!!!

Awesome traverse pitch, it felt like the Black Canyon (except for the bolts)!

The photo is not the start of the traverse of P2. Hill is at the Wild Child anchors. P2 starts from the sling anchor at the end of P1 of Gneiss Route. There is a 'black' bolt just left of the sling anchor that is first bolt of P2. Nice pic, though.

P1 starts at the left trending ramp where there is an overhanging bulge/boulder problem. Billy starts just to the right. Wild Child starts off of the loose dirt hill side to the right.

What the hell. I did this route this morning and I don't know what to say. I really wish that I had have brought a rack. Without a set of cams this thing makes some routs in Eldo look like a joke. With some gear the route would probably be just fine. Felt a little hard for 9+, but that might have been the 13a before we climbed this route. Aside from all my griping, this really is a sick route. Mad props to Darren. I recommend it and a rack. I also recommend the rappel, it is worth it. Woooooo Weeeeeeee.............

I just did this with Micah this morning and man it was great! I truly agree about having a rack with you! The lead out are wild! I really like how this route keep you on your toes, and if you like to rap then hop in this route you will not be let down.

If accessing Gneiss Roof from the two pitches of Ride the Snake, there is belay bolt on ledge-perch right off the ground for your added convenience/safety....

The link up of "Ride the Snake" and "Gneiss Roof" is now called: "Nice Ride"

• Be careful moving up past the first bolt above the Ashtray, I think I noticed a jug that was missing, and if you fall before getting to your first piece in the roof, you might hit the ledge.

I added a bolt to the crux pitch coming out of the Ashtray belay (with concurrence from Casey). It is above the first one, before committing to the step onto the arete and up to the hand crack in the roof.

Did the Gneiss-Ride linkup this past Sunday at the Mission Wall and found it to be a really adventurous, different-feeling line than most other Clear Creek Canyon climbs; pulling the roof crux is def. a little tricky, the protection is bomber though if you can get a #2 or #3 Camalot in the vertical roof crack, plus the ledge above the rood mantle can take a few medium-sized cams for peace of mind. I found there was a little bit of route finding on P4, not too bad though, and the anchors at the top on Surrette Ledge are a little awkward. All in all though an awesome, really fun route that doesn't seem to belong in Clear Creek, just the right mix of safe fun climbing and gettin a little out there on the edge. I'd say the first ~30 ft. of PI is 5.9+/5.10a and the rest of the climb up to the roof is 5.9/5.9+ [the traverse on PIII might be 5.10a/5.10b] and the crux of the roof to be felt like 5.10c-ish.

Another great line from big wall Mabe. It's definitely a mixed line so be sure to bring some small gear to supplement the bolts. I'd call the the roof moves benchmark 9+.

did bite the snake and this today, simply put not impressed. There are very few routes i have done that i wouldnt do again, but this is definitly one of them. These routes were poorly bolted (bolts dont follow any kind of line), overly bolted in simple places and under bolted in areas where a fall might cause a pendulum (the traverse after p2). We placed a number 1 camalot in the "roof" but you could easily do without it.

I've done this twice now, and I'm going to have to depart from the conventional wisdom. I believe a "+" was originally meant to mean sustained. There is no sustained climbing on this route and the crux is much harder than a 5.9 move. It's a strenuous, highly technical stem move above the bolt immediately above the roof (at least the way I did it - twice) that felt more like 10b I'd say.

I also agree that the route is definitely not sustained at 9. The roof move is indeed tricky and have heard that it feels anywhere from 9+ to 10d, depending how you do it, body type, height, etc.

Read my comment (under RTS descr.) I left about 9+ sometimes being harder than 5.11!

How about we rate that move 5.9/10-? doesnt matter to me, but it may better help other folks know what they are getting into. I am glad you liked the route enough to do it a second time!

I personally use some holds more right of the bolt, and I don't stem left. I think the trick is stepping into that jug hold below the bolt with your right foot.

:)

NSFOD - Please vote for the route grade and quality. We would love to see a consensus developed for each of these. Thanks