Picture of the entire route route. You can see the...
Description
This route is just right, and down from the Anarchy wall, by about 50 feet. It makes a good warm up for the harder climbs that are on that rock.
When you approach the Anarchy wall, instead of scrambling up the hillside, just walk around on the flat ground to the right of the crag, and there is a short bolted route in an alcove. Gets a lot of shade like the rest of the crag.
Pretty straight forward steep jug climbing capped by a short overhang at the top. Establishing under the roof is probably the crux, then a jug haul over the roof. Cruiser. The line can be climbed in a couple different ways. Not sure what the official rating is, but it is probably a 5.7 or so?
This is a good climb, 5.7 sounds about right. Getting established underneath the roof I thought was the crux too. It's a good climb to do if you are like me and can't climb anything on the Anarchy Wall but have friends that need you to belay them.
The crux is just at the top of this climb. After clipping the second to last pin you will notice one last pin just a foot or so from the top anchor. If you move right about 3 feet and climb the crux from a bomber sloping double handhold then this climb is 5.7. However, if after cliping the second to last clip you are just left of the top anchor and continue straight up, then the crux is perhaps 5.8+. I tried it both ways and liked the latter better.
I found that the bottom crux was pulling on the crimper jug. You can get a bomber drop-knee after this. If you're lucky, the next toss will deposit you on a sick sloping ledge that will give you a lead to the next move. If you want the beta for this, read on. If not, better just click on something else...Okay, here it is: you get a sick left hand side jab with your foot. You can actually feel this move with your toe. That's how you know you have it right. Then, pull a sick left hand rose through so that your entire head goes under your right arm. If you can smell your armpit, you know you're doing it right. Then, after all this, pull a gaston jam to a bloated toe fodder, and you're pretty much home free. Watch out for the screaching bat-weasels though. Even with all this, I'd say it's maybe a 5.7...but probably 5.7+
By jarthur From: Westminster, Colorado May 14, 2008 rating: 5.7
Man, I tried to use this as a warmup for the Anarchy Wall. It didn't work. I think the hike in was a better warmup. This climb is actually good once you reach the midpoint and start heading to the anchor.
I wouldn't call Halloween much of warmup either to Anarchy. It is better to warm up on the far left routes and work your way right. Once you are sick flash-pumped, have a smoke, then get down to business.
An efficient way to warm-up on those left routes is to lead Hazardous Waste, and lap the others... move a TR right to the next couple (PT and A in UK), directional off their hooks or last bolts. The routes are close together to do this. as you wire these routes, they become better warm-ups. A Rules and MW are also condusive for this.
Anarchy Wall
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