Mighty Dog 

The rating that I listed on this route was after talking with the climber from Golden who told me that he got the First Free Ascent of the route, with Rolofson's permission. He rated it 12c. There definitely is a great no-hands rest if you find the appropriate kneebar right before you pull the crux moves. The crux is tough, but not any more difficult than any of the moves on Sucking My Will to Live at the Primo Wall. Sucking is my benchmark for 12c in the canyon as it is a tough 12c. Mighty Dog is not really comparable to the Anarchy wall routes because of the very overhung nature of the route. But, believe me, there are some trick foot beta and kneebars on Mighty Dog that give you excellent rests on this route, paring down the crux to the two bolt section before the lip.

Holy uninspiring climbs, Batman! Got all psyched up to do this overhanging route, and poof, a cush drilled pocket right off the ground. No matter, keep going for the roof, ok, get ready to grip out under the roof on non-positive holds--it "is" 12c, after all--and woof! my hand disappeared into an enormous overstuffed barcalounger-comfortable hold, then another, and another! What a let-down. came down, and went to the gym to feel what a good manufactured route feels like.

Or maybe that was the line next to it.

AC: I think you are referring to the line next to mighty dog, called fiddler on the roof. Completely manufractured holds through the roof, quite disappointing if you were not expecting it. MIghty Dog however is natural as far as I know and a worthy line that actually holds the grade of 12c. Try it.

Has anyone climbed the sloper sequence that traverses under the roof? It climbs much more solid rock and doesn't depend on the climber having pencil-thin fingers. This variation doesn't require skipping any clips, but does decrease the difficulty of the roof slightly in my opinion. Thoughts?

I replaced that ratty old sling at the crux with a newer draw. The shorter draw does not affect rope drag and is much easier to clip in the wind. If someone would rather put a sling up there, I will gladly take my draw back.

Probably needs a chain for that draw. In between a normal bone and that long sling size. Weren't there chains up there before?

The new draw works for me, but I clipped it when I was past it. The long sling before let you clip before committing to the flake crimps. Either way is fine. The rest of the bolts have chain draws as of yesterday.

The first crimp in the crux (after the glued jug) isn't so bad to clip off of as long as you work your feet correctly.