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Rebel Wall
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Body English 
Large Crack 
Momma Says Knock You Out 
Southpaw 
Unknown bolt line 
Upper Cut 

Body English 

5.9

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 192 page views

Submitted By: tobias on May 18, 2003


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Description 

Nice route. If you wanna place gear in the canyon, this is one to consider. It starts up a big left-facing dihedral, goes over a bulge, then later a roof. Plenty of placement options. As the climbing gets easier (although the rock is a bit sketchier), head left up under the huge overhang. There's an anchor there that you can rap off (or continue on with the short second pitch named "Upper Cut"--recommended.) The Colorado Front Range book lists this as over a 100ft rappel, but it's not. The length of the climb is more like 80 ft total. Great belay ledge, nice views of the canyon and kayakers in the spring.


Protection 

Medium rack. I only used wires and cams, though hexes would have taken well...



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By Casey Bernal
Apr 20, 2008

I thought this is a quality route. Hexes do work really well on this climb. I thought it was closer to 100', though we didn't bring a measuring tape and we stopped at the chains which adds a little. There wasn't more than ~30' of the 70m rope on the ground for the rap.