If you like thin face climbing that utilizes balance and sequence, then this route is for you. It begins with the same first bolt as refer madness and continues left through some tricky 5.11 climbing. Rest at the ledge and continue through the final 3 bolt crux. The beta is incredibly fun to work out and the climb has good clipping stances. The guide book says 5.12d/13a, but Nate Weitzel and I felt that it wasn't quite that difficult.
After a certain point and after a certain number of burns through a route, there comes a point when one justifiably owns a route, and now I own Ten Digit Dialing. Just as QS says, working out the beta on this route is a kick, albeit sometimes frustrating. I won't give it away, but the kicker on this ever so slightly past vertical route lies in figuring out how to dial in the feet and keep them working through the crimps that comprise the crux. This is a brilliant route on which the climbing just gets harder and harder with every move up the wall. Worth ten stars on a three star scale. Three cheers to Alan Nelson for this one, seriously.
Without being too patronizing, I would not ascribe old, fat, weak, out of shape..... etc, etc, to the first ascensionist of Ten Digit Dialing. In fact, reference to approximately 30 years of climbing experience should add something to one's qualification to grade a route. And this Alan Nelson has. For TDD, I'll offer no personal opinion here, however, consensus grading seems to be one of the final arbitors for establishing a grade. Another arbitor is reference to a "Gold Standard" for the grade, in the area. As far as Clear Creek is concerned: Is TDD easier than Twitch? Is it harder than Anarchitect? Is it on par with Evil? What I will offer is that TDD has at least one move harder than Battle's End, which we call 5.12c and that seems to be well accepted. Down-grading by strong, young bloods should be taken with a grain of salt. I've climbed with some of these guys, and many are so strong now that most 5.12 comes very easy. Let's say that no matter how young and strong you are, a "Gold Standard" is the inviolate reference point. So think about the reference point when picking the grade, and remember: it's okay to get better, but getting better doesn't mean that a route has gotten easier.
I've been climbing for 9 years, which for my age is not totally laughable. Before I sent TDD, the hardest previous route that I red pointed was 12a, a grade that I remained on for about four years. TDD took me only 5 or 6 tries over a few days. With regards to reference points, Tell Tale Heart in Boulder Canyon (12b) took me quite a bit longer. I still have not sent Twitch (12d) and have probably been to the rock on 5 separate occasions. I've been to Sonic Youth (13a) probably 10 times, still no redpoint. My ass is still sore from the ass kicking that Anarchitect gave me. The sloping arete crux on Evil between the fourth and fifth bolts is like doing some of the moves on TDD, but overhung. TDD is a fantastic line; one must be aware of all parts of his/her body at all times to pull it off. The line is precise, delicate, and yes, hard. However, I based my rating on experiences that myself and many others have had on the route. I suppose the real question here is one of rating ownership. The climbingboulder email had a discussion about this a few months ago. I felt that ratings ideally are a collaborative service to the climbing community. Perhaps my downrating does not entirely uphold this standard. I'm not Sharma and believe in the valuable function that ratings perform. On the flip side, if ratings padded my young, taught Swedish boy ass too much, then I probably would have kept the higher rating. Regardless, I give many thanks to Alan Nelson. Althought I don't know him, I'm guessing that the kind of guy he is is reflected in the quality of his routes, which are superb. Hopefully I haven't offended anyone, and perhaps I made some oldtimers feel young for all of the routes that I haven't done.
In regard to the above discussion on grading in Clear Creek, and especially TDD, I would have to agree with the concept of using Gold Standard routes to compare moves. I have tried many of the Clear Creek 12d's and 13a's, as well as having completed a number of the 12c's in the canyon. My opinion of the grade is based on these routes, and I would reference Twitch in particular. Twitch is very similar to TDD, although the crux moves are on slightly smaller holds. For this reason alone, TDD seems to be 12c, although definitely a hard 12c. Also, compare TDD to Sucking my will to live at the Primo Wall. I found Sucking to be more challenging and powerful, and it is another 5.12c.
I agree with Quinn and would love to applaud both Alan Nelson and Richard Wright for so many phenomenal routes in CCC, and thank them for all their hard work. I also respect the right of the first ascentionist to give a grade, but this grade needs to be worked out with the climbing community to establish the final grade. This happens with all good routes over time, the grade often changes a bit as more people figure it out. One other comment is that the grade should be accurate to give people who are aspiring to certain climbing levels a realistic feel for that grade. I have been quite disappointed in the past by trying routes in many areas that I put on my goal list, only to find the grade to be easier than stated. This can give people a false sense of security, which can be a dangerous thing.
Finally, even though I am a younger climber, I am definitely not a young gun who warms up on 13a. It has taken me 8+ years to be able to even try some of these routes that we are discussing, so I feel justified in giving my opinion on the grades.
A very good route about which I am very happy for careful and thinking Flash. Good moves to start with much harder finger moves near end, but route is very short so power is not very great. Having long reach in crux makes move to left not so hard as for the shorter person.
This is an excellent route!! Great rock, well bolted, cool moves, the best line on the wall (one of the better new lines in CCC)...Not at all the grade given in the guide (12d/13a)... Realistically only 12a, possibly 12b if you're under 5'10". Compare it to something in Eldo. Inflated grades are taking over the Front Range, since the mid 90s!!! Its way more proud to grade new (sport) routes according to the standards of the early 90s and before...
Having flashed this route, I have to say that comparing it with its neighbor, Reefer Madness, there is no single move on the 5.12 harder than the crux of the "11a". This doesn't make TDD easier but makes me wonder about Reefer Madness.
This is a stellar route, but I'll eat my shorts if it's 13a. My best guess would be that it'd rate 12b or maybe b/c at an older area like Shelf. I haven't really climbed in 2 years, and I came within a hang of flashing it this weekend, meaning that it can't possibly be that hard ('cause I ain't that good!)
One of my favorite routes a Clear Creek! 10 stars on a 3 star scale sounds about right!
This is the best sport pitch I've climbed thus far in Clear Creek! Unless I've gotten much better this winter, I agree with the above comments regarding the inaccurate guidebook rating of 12d/13a. Its probably more like 12c, and not a particular stout one at that.
Best sport pitch I've done in Clear Creek (caveat: I have not tried Anarchitecht or Sonic Youth).
I think what people need to keep in mind is that the shorter you are the more difficult the crux is on this route. I did the route with someone only a few inches taller than me and watched him reach through the crux holds using the same solid good feet, whereas I had to move my feet twice onto much less desired footholds.
Having said that, I did TDD 2 years ago on my 2 try. While it didnt feel 13a for me, I would give it 12c/d based on the single hard move. Sucking my will to live is more sustained, but TDD has a harder move. Its a stellar route whatever the grade is!
I would have to say that height is not really a factor on this route. 12d at Smith took me two weeks, TDD took me three tries on the same day, and I am only 5'6 and I pretty much suck at sport climbing. 12c seems good but maybe a little generous. Would love it it if were 13a. Great route fun moves.
Climbed this thing today, so I wanted to log on to see what people said about the route. Imagine my disappointment to find nothing but a bunch of insecure pussies trying to boost their own egos by spraying about how easy they found this route. What about "great job, Alan, thanks for putting in the time and effort to bolt such a fun route" or "is there a better way to reach the sidepull than popping into an undercling on the triangular horn" or anything anyone cares about other than all the bitching about ratings. Wankers...
I got on this route today- perfect weather. I must say it is really one of the highest quality pitches I have ever been on. I don't know and don't care about the grade, but thanks for bolting this masterpiece. Now I just have to go back and link it up to the bird poop.www.areadan.com
Alan, I think this is a really good line (and well bolted) but there is no way it's 13a. Just because this climb took you a certain number of tries does not necessarily mean that it is a certain grade. Different climbs favor different people. I got this route on my second try in the middle of summer whereas Anarchitect took more than five days of work over the course of a month. I usually dont redpoint 12c on my second try but favor crimps over slopers and power over endurance so 12c seems reasonable.
Great fun. I was expecting the start to be more difficult than it is, from all the hype this little route gets. The crux is certainly no harder than 12c. Probably the biggest crux is deciphering the most efficient sequence, as every available feature, edge, bump, and crimp, are chalked and ticked!
Plenty of good rests before the crux, great clipping stances.
This is one of my favorite routes in the canyon. Definitely a good one to repeat. I jumped on it today and noticed that the crux is easier. A sloping side pull has mysteriously become quite positive. I'm afraid someone has chipped it, and want to know if anyone else has noticed this. I was definitely bummed. I'd like to think climbers are more respectful. Let me know what's up.
I just recently had my draws stolen off Ten Digit Dialing, like in the past 4 or 5 days. Does anyone know anything that could help me get them back? I really need them. I won't be pissed off. I just want them back. Thanks.
God I love this place! The only problem is what the hell happened to it. It's like I move away and now the whole Golden Cliffs crowed has moved in. Funny story, I watched like ten different climbers get on TDD this weekend. They all lowered off and down graded it. Best part was not a single one sent the dam thing. No wonder grades are so out of WHACK! Everyone that has sent it, is pretty set on 12c, however, pulling on a draw must to make it soft for the grade......... LOL
5.12b--I guess I will open my yap on this one as well. First I need to say that I usually do not contribute to public spray, and that I thought this to be an amazing line! I will further add that I have climbed other routes given .12c, and found most of them to require further effort. By example I would say this one feels easier than Pizza Dick, Power Bulge, most certaily easier than Je T'aime...If you can make the reach properly ( which feels natural ), then you're stylin' to the chains! I have yet to encounter a bad day climbing at CCC! Peace, Young Doug.
By Micah Holt From: Colorado Springs/Greeley, CO Nov 10, 2008 rating: 5.12d
I thought it was harder than Finger Prince....maybe I am just weird, but really. I think 12c if not 12d...I lean towards 12d. I also thought that it was close to on par with Flying Cowboys and Sucking My Will To Live. It's just hard to grade due to the cryptic beta.
Wall of the '90s
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