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Wall of the 90s
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Back and Tan 

5.13a

   

FA: Gregg Purnell
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.13a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 667 page views

Submitted By: gregg purnell on Jul 1, 2001


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Description 

Lots of good moves if you like crimpers and sloper jugs. Very well protected, but still scary! You might like this. It is just left of the 2 cracks on the far right. Follows the "black and tan" stain up the slab.


Protection 

10 bolts with chains for the anchor*



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By Chris Cavallaro
Apr 18, 2006

Is this route open yet? Where exactly is it on the wall?

By chris deulen
From: Duluth, MN
May 4, 2006

As far as I can tell it's been open for over 5 years. Though, I would put it more at 5.13b. Very slabby, with an insane one foot balance crux up to some weird slopey gaston, if memory serves. When you hike up to the Wall of the 90s, go up and right. Continue past 10 Digit Dialing and The Strange Iron Handle, down and around the corner. It is the next bolted line on the wall, and should have one or two steel links screwed onto bolts. Not sure if they're for bailing, or if someone chose them instead of a biner. The start is a bit chossy, and leads to a high first clip. If you start going up hill again and come to the furthest bolted line (Interstellar Overdrive) on the wall, you've gone too far. Good luck, this climb is stout!

By Darren Mabe
From: Goulder, CO
Mar 16, 2008
rating: 5.13

I am sorry to report that this route is even harder now. I broke off two of the crux holds yesterday. One is the right-facing flake entering the crux below the lower clip, it is now a smaller almost undercling crimp. Yikes! Yhis hold may not last long either.
Also, at the crux bolt, in the weird gaston dish, a small part of the smallest usuable two finger crimp broke off.

This may bump the rating a letter. It will still go, but I would put it at LEAST 13b/c now.

The footwork is insane on this route!

By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 17, 2008

Has this ever been redpointed?

By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Mar 17, 2008

It has been redpointed prior to the hold breaking at the crux.