Wall of Justice

Watch out for manky old draws hung on Great Escape and Hanging Judge. A dogbone snapped on me today so be careful.

Check out Officer Friendly 10d. A real pumpy piece of work. Nice dynamic moves through very fun jugs. At the end of the trail, you come to a little dirt patch to belay from. You'll see it. Facing the wall from the patch, it's at about 10 o'clock. There's two bolted lines that meet at a groove in the overhang and then four or five moves to a good place to clean from. It's the route on the right. 6 or 7 bolts, I don't know-just bring 10 or so because that's what I had and we made it fine. Really fun route though. I want to know who threw down the line on the fixed draws! You're sick whoever you are! Good luck

Officer Friendly is already written up on the site, try looking at the description to see how many draws you need. Good warm up, but it is listed at 11c, although probably soft for the grade.

I realize that with the safety ropes on the slab, all the bolts, and the two chain clips on Great Escape, the Wall of Justice is not a back-to-nature experience. Nevertheless, I wish that the person working the project would remove the chains from the bolts.They make the place considerably uglier than before. I realize that whoever equipped the route spent his or her own money and is putting in a great deal of effort _in part as a service to the community. Still, with no disrespect to the good intentions of the equippers, my vote would be for a bit more inconvenience cleaning draws and less metallic crag. How do other climbers feel?

Actually, there are more reasons besides aesthetics to think twice about fixed chains in Clear Creek. Jefferson County Open Space owns many of the crags and they are currently doing various things to evaluate climbing impact, etc. Anyway, it would be a shame for them to see something at Wall of the Justice that might get their overly tight panties in a bunch.

The last time I was at Wall of Justice I noticed that many of the chains were shiny stainless steel rigs. This is wholly unacceptable - if we are going to put up fixed chains, we need to at least camo them so they are not obvious and unsightly to rangers, birdwatchers, and the like.

If you are interested in details on Jeffco Open Space and Clear Creek Climbing, contact Tod Anderson, who is the Access Fund coordinator for Jeffco.

I meant to sign the previous message about the chains. Peter Hunt

Concerning the chains, I agree they should go. The route in question is probably 5.14c or harder, with an estimated V12 or V13 boulder problem crux. I really have no idea how hard because I couldn't pull onto the holds. Considering the amount of traffic it's going to get, the chains are unnecessary. If whoever bolted this is reading, consider removing the chains; they're an eyesore.

My thought is that with all the fixed rope, chalked holds etc, a couple of fixed chains is not that big of a deal. ( I am referring to the chains on the Great Escape) I generally do not consider most of the roadside crags in Clear Creek destination spots for people who are not climbers( ie birdwatchers), wall of justice in particular since it is rather hidden from view. I agree, the chains should have been painted, and I didn't paint the one that I fixed (sorry), but I was tired of shredding my rope cleaning gear from this route. I mostly consider this crag an outdoor gym, and when someone fixed the first chain, I decided to add another. If the gear is that problematic to you, take it down. But is doesn't seem that much different than the fixed anchors at the top, just that the chains hang down. Great Escape does see a lot of traffic, and it is easier to clean the route with the two fixed chains at the top, but I am rather lazy.

Nate, I should have clarified my comment. The chains on The Great Escape serve a function, like the rope at the base. The project chains serve no useful function and are an eyesore.

I agree, the chains on the project seem to be an eyesore as I have never seen anyone on the route. I just wanted to make sure my reasons for the chains on Great Escape were clear.

Yes, The Great Escape was previously difficult to clean. I don't think we need to sweat the chains all that much - if you put chains in, just paint them so they are inobvious to rangers and the like.

Regarding the route you are describing with the fixed chains, I recollect that about 4 years ago a guy who climbed regularly at CATS, spent quite a bit of time at Morrison, and was somewhere from the E. Coast put that route up. I don't remember his name, but am fairly sure he returned to wherever he had come from some time ago.

Not a bad way to make an unbelievable wall look horrible. It's no wonder why sport climbers catch so much flack, we muck up every wall we get our hands on. Whoever added the chain clips, please reconsider you decision and remove them. If you are unable to draw the bolts, maybe this climb is not for you.

Another thing to think about is that the crag might be hard to access and see for now but Jefferson County along with Clear Creek County have big plans to develop the canyon for access including a hiking/biking path from Golden to Clear Creek . So making a outdoor crag look like a indoor gym might not be such a good idea for future climbing in the canyon.

Who cares about the chains it dosen't seem to bother anyone except you guys. I got a great ideal: if someone replaces the last two bolts on the Great Escape I'll paint the chains brown. I think safty should be more of an isue than the chains, that for the most part only the climbers that go to that wall can see. If anyone has seen the last two bolts on the Great Escape they know what I am talking about. The second to last bolt, the hanger looks like it is about to pull over the bolt head, and it is bent from people cleaning the route. The last bolt looks like it is about to pull out of the rock. I think we should put chains on the last three bolts. Well I don't know about that, but the comunity should get together and replace those bolts or at least teach me hoy so I can do it. Also if your pissed off about the chains you need to reevaluate your views on Clear Creek climbing ethics. This winter most of the moderate climbs on High Wire have had their anchors replaced with bright shiny chains. At least the Wall of Justice is somewhat hidden. Well, the chains do serve a purpose and as long as they are up people will continue to bitch. Clear Creek ethics definatly need some reevaluation. It will never be Eldo but I think we can do better. However, as for the Great Escape I think the chains serve a purpose. The chains on the project route are kind of lame.

Hey, I picked up some draws and a t-shirt by the Wall of Justice last week, if they are yours, post your info, and I'll return them.

Personally I don't think chains are ugly, and I don't understand why others think such. I get stoked when I see bolts or gear on rock, because it gets me excited to climb, and reminds me that climbing sick routes is possible. I know this may be a "radical" view, but climbing in general is an alternative sport. To complain about the hard work someone has put in on some obscure cliff out of the view of everyone but climbers and kayakers (who, I'm sure, could care less), is to strain a gnat. Wake up to the reality of things: we climb on solidified pieces of dirt and rock. It's not supposed to be the mona lisa! We drill into it with metal, leave bolts, and chalk the hell out of areas, which, in my opinion, really isn't that ugly. I don't mind seeing chalk on rock, and I don't understand why people get so upset; "oh, dear God, they've put white marks on the dirt covered rock. Could they possibly be climbing there? It's so much uglier now that it's chalk mixed with dust, dirt, and bird shit!!" Get a frickin' life.

Booty score of the day.
I removed the aforementioned chains from the V13 project to the left of Speed Trap. I plan on putting them to good use as several rap anchors for a project of mine in the Platte. No more eyesore and hopefully the weight I removed from the roof doesn't make it feel as steep.

If this really pisses you off, and are strong enough to climb this route, I will give you 3 draws in their stead (probably booty themselves) which you can use on the route for your hangdogging pleasure.

I will note, however, that the bolts from which the chains were hanging are spinners, and one has minimal thread engagement of the nut, and Redhead bolts to boot... just hope that they are long studs, as they are roof placements!

Thanks for the donation to a greater cause.

Speaking of...does anyone know the name of this route? I would like to name it, but could take me 20 years to be strong enough.

-d

There are also lots of more moderate routes on the way in. I'm far too lame to do any of the routes on the actual Wall o' Justice, but I had a good time on some of the less steep routes. There is also a very steep, very easy 9+ or so right before safety ropes.

Regarding the previously chained route: It is named "Child's play". It was bolted by Luke Childers, who moved away before he was able to send it. He intended to remove the chains but wasn't able to. Thanks for cleaning it up.

Sorry for having to post something that doesn't pertain to most people, but I'm hoping that the right person reads this... Unfortunately, I absent-mindedly left my GriGri and locking biner at the Wall of Justice on Sunday 9/30. They were probably left on, or near, the flat spot on the right side of the wall. I can definitely identify the gear if necessary. Thanks!

On the Wall of Justice: Has the project to the right of Slammer 12b been done?