Monkey See Monkey Do only works for some monkeys. The Monkey House wall contains a short sector with a large roof 30 - 35 ft above the talus. Presently, a single route runs through the middle of the roof and this is Monkey See Monkey Do. If you look at doing this route, bear in mind that looks can be deceiving. The roof on Monkey See Monkey Do looks intimidating, while the slab approach looks tweaker but casual. Pull up off the talus for a clip just before a foot wide overlap, thin finger-crimps and a long reach will just snag a second clip, a crux in its own right. Pull the 5.12b crux following the second bolt as a left angling finger traverse on disappearing feet. Breathe easy from here on out because all of the difficult climbing can be disposed of in the first 15 ft off the ground. No beta for the roof except to say that it is well protected; I felt that the conventional long sling below the roof was not even essential given the placement of bolts on this route. Pull up over the roof on...................... No more beta. If you can't dig this move, why climb? Two stars for the continuity, good stone, great finish, and the tricky finger-intensive start. Lets all chant another mantra for the Master of Clear Creek, Alan -The-Bolting-Fiend- Nelson.
Protection
QD only. This 50 ft route needs only half a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
I agree with Chris that the crux seemed like getting to just beyond the second bolt. Clipping the second bolt after doing the crux is an option to consider, as the fall from there is not bad (as I proved a couple of times!.) On the other hand, blowing the clip from below might put you on the ground.
Getting to just left and below the second bolt is certainly the crux. Beyond that this route has hard moves but nowhere near as difficult as attaining the crimper pinch thing. I definitely recommend clipping from just right of the second bolt. As indicated this is a good stance and well protected. Alternatively just stick clip it from the ground. I am guessing that something broke for the starting set of moves to arrive at the second bolt as this move was waaaay harder than anything else on the route and there is clear evidence of breakage.This individual move seemed harder than anything on ten digit dialing.
This route is fun. The upper roof is really fun. However, to me, it felt kind of hard for Clear Creek 12b. It definitely felt harder than Ken T'ank, The Great Excape and Big Dog. The traverse really feels way easier than what lies before it.
The Monkey House
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