This route is located to the left of 'First Impressions' and is a great little line. The climbing has great moves, from pulling over that little roof to balancy footwork towards the anchor. Enjoyable the whole way along. Don't go too far in the corner, clip the bolt, and then head over the arete as soon as you can to avoid weird body positions. Great protection on these moves and all others, like all the routes on the Little Eiger.
This route has recently had new anchors added to it, so it is no longer necessary to use the anchors at the top of First Impressions.
2.5 stars for sure, what a beauty....
Protection
11 bolts - 2 bolt anchor. Now, it has its own anchor.
I agree that you need to clip the bolt then work your way over the arete onto the face. Don't get suckered into the corner on the left or you won't be able to get onto the face very easily. Remember that this route shares anchors with "First Impressions" so be aware if you're leading & they're toproping. The last move to the anchor can be thin if you don't find the good holds to the left.
I TR'ed it after leading First Impressions, but found that one can start coming over the arete to the right, i.e. clip the bolt, but then the feet are better to the left of the arete.
There are two rap anchors (four bolts with chains or rings) in the same place for this and "First Impressions", so don't worry if someone's headed up the other route.
By Scott Conner From: Lyons, CO May 3, 2004 rating: 5.10c
Maybe it's just too early in the season but this felt like a sandbag... Cool route.
By Kyle Turner From: Brighton, CO Jun 4, 2004 rating: 5.10a
Fun route, has some good moves but starts a bit slabby. Agree going left early will make things interesting trying to clip the bolt on the otherside of the arete, makes for an interesting rock over.
On the topo above, the routes are: 7: Footloose (5.10a), 6: First Impressions (5.9), 5: Eiger Direct (5.11d), 4: Radometer in the Red Zone (5.11b/c), 3: Too! (pitch 1: 5.10d), 2: Nordwand (pitch 1: 5.10c), 1: Natural Selection (5.11a/b; long rope required).
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Sep 11, 2005 rating: 5.10c
A good pitch, but it felt harder than 10a. I agree with Scott Conner's 10c rating.
I would have to say that 10c is over doing it. An awkward 10a move back to the right, and that's about it. Grade creep.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Sep 12, 2005 rating: 5.10c
Hey Matt, glad you found Footloose to be 10a; you're obviously a better climber than I am. I found it to be harder than Headline and Bush Administration and other Clear Creek 10a's that I've done. Grade creep? No; just a difference of opinion.
I remember it feeling like 10a, then another time I crossed the diagonalling roof at a different spot and it felt harder. It really depends on where you decide to step over. I think finding little crystals for the right hand helps in groveling over the high foot. Really just 1-2 moves.
I'd say easier than Cosmosis (10a) in Boulder Canyon, and easier than C'est La Vie (9+) in Eldo, WAY easier than After 6 (5.7) in Yosemite, and easier than Gorilla's Delight (9) in Boulder Canyon. Yeah, some of these are trad routes, but they're graded lower and seem harder. The moves alone seem harder, and there's more of them. Shouldn't we at least try to have similar grades for the Front Range, instead of having a different set of grades for Clear Creek, Boulder Canyon, Eldorado, Rocky Mtn. etc. I will probably never climb harder than easy 11, but I have to find places with soft 11s to do them! i.e. Cear Creek!
First time I led this, I waited a bit before stepping over the arete, and it definitely felt harder than a CC 10a. Next time, I stepped over early and the grade felt a lot more accurate. Fun little crimpy pulls past that arete, kinda balancy.
Little Eiger
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