The Great Escape 

There are now two fixed chains on this route, on the last two bolts. I discovered the one fixed chain, and decided to fix a second one to alleviate a problem with getting off of this route. By clipping the anchors at the top of the climb, it causes some terrible rope friction if you want to clean your draws, and is tough on the rope. Now, if you are so inclined, you can pull the roof, go up and touch the anchors, then jump. You will take one of the greatest swings around, and have two fixed chain draws to catch you. This also makes cleaning the draws much easier. Just a thought to add a little more adventure to the redpoint of this one!

a total blast

I noticed that some of the holds on the steepest part of roof were flakes. To be honest, I was a bit nervous pulling on them. Do you think they are safe?

I've done this route several times without any problems. And I've seen bigger and heavier climbers pulling on this flake without incident. This route has probably seen hundreds of ascents.

Of course, there are no guarantees. At least it is very steep and if you reef the flake off, it won't hit anyone (except maybe the climber).

Cleaning choss, loose flakes, and other dangerous stuff off a route can't be considered "manufacturing", even if you have to clean it with a prybar. It is completely different from drilling a pocket, because pocket-drilling is done strictly to facilitate climbing, whereas prying crap off a route is simply safe and responsible.

Incidentally, I think this route is one of the best routes in the canyon - great job!

[The first bolt on the roof, before the lip, looks crappy, too. It looks like the hanger is about to pull right off the bolt. This could be the result of repeated king swings from cleaning this route. If someone know how to do this I will donate the bolt. I think replacing it with a 3/8 inch Metolius bolt is the way to go.]

I have climbed on the route a few months ago and the bolt seemed to be pulled out a decent amount. Does anyone know it still is that way or if it has been fixed. If not, and it know one minds, I would be willing to replace it with a 3/8" SS double expansion fixe on my next trip to that wall. Let me know what you think.

Ed Rhine

[The bolt is still in bad condition as of yesterday. If you replace the bolt make sure you leave the chain behind. Good luck, and thank you for helping to keep climbs safe.]

Thanks for posting those pics Mike. I'm sitting in a restaraunt in Barcelona and was thinking about the last project Micah and I worked before I left. Thanks for the cool surprise. Oh yea, I also want to say thanks a pant load for spelling my name wrong. Cheers! Wyatt

I was working this route last week and left some draws on it. Someone took the bottom three I had hanging, just wanted to give a heads up. Other than that really fun route.

I would say the most exciting route on WOJ. skipped the 4th (or 5th?) clip (wherever the crux is). A bit scary, but I did fall on it once, and it's a clean fall. The ending is one of the easier ones as far as mantles go; plenty of holds, just keep it together.

Super fun climb. The crux for me was getting into the underclings. I found a good crimp up and left of the last bolt that made pulling the lip easy.

The 2nd to last bolt before the anchors (fixed chains) is still in bad shape, but the proximity to the previous and next bolt should keep things safe when it comes out. You may get pelted in the face with a chain though...the bolt just after the undercling crux has a loose nut that should be checked and tightened before weighting.

This is a fun route with bouldery moves. The right skills will allow you to skip some of the holds and make your static, climbing friends piss and moan. I'm guessing the frequent forum downraters do not have these skills. Either way it seems fair at 12c.

Best 12c in ccc? Oh yeh the fixed biners on the anchors are super worn, I replaced the one with the gate that had stopped closing, which might be superfluous considering that jumping from the anchors is an easier method of cleaning this route. In regards to the bolting of this route, the 5th bolt is hard to clip (at least with my sequence) I skipped it on redpoint burns risking a fall onto that large ledge, which is okay considering that the next hold is a bucket. If you do so, be careful.

I have added a third fixed chain under the roof. This should provide some additional protection if cleaning the route from only the fixed chains, since the bolt under the roof (now middle chain) seems a bit suspect. I do not have the knowledge to replace a bolt without really messing up the rock, but this bolt may well qualify for some help.

What a great route. Those roof jugs felt great. Fell pulling the lip on both my 2nd and 3rd burns. Those last few sloping crimps don't feel so good with a pump. Can't wait to get back and tick this one. Classic, for sure!

Nice route. Bolts all look in good shape. Second bolt from the lip has a bit of a bent hanger but still looks bomber. No biners at the anchors but downclimbing is easy if you're too chicken to jump off the top (like I was).