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New Hipster Rock
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Hip, Hip, Hurray 

5.12b/c

   

FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright, 3/07
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 424 page views

Submitted By: Mark Tarrant on Apr 29, 2007


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Ropes hanging off Hip, Hip, Hurray and The Hipster...


Description 

Climb the overhanging, orange face on the right wall of the dihedral. Hard and crimpy down low with a few jugs in the middle. Arc right onto the prow near the top, finishing with a problematic mantle. The space between bolts 2 and 3 isn't as terrible as it looks--you'll clip from a huge jug--still, the belayer should be alert here. The mantle could be the crux, but it becomes nearly automatic once you figure it out.


Location 

The right wall of the dihedral.


Protection 

5 bolts, 2-bolt anchor



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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
May 24, 2007

Hip, Hip, Hurray is an excellent, steep (!!!!), and powerful route on nearly perfect rock. That Mark finds it closer to 12b than to 12c or 12d may reflect my presently bum hip and now diminished flexibility or simply his having caught too much sun at this crag. This route is steep, or did I already indicate that (?), really steep. What look like good edges from below turn out to be very hard to use and super finger intensive. Even the one slolt is hard to use. After six months of bouldering on plastic, I'd call the moves V4+ to start, V5, V3, and V6 to finish on a sick mantle that pitches you out over the steepest part of the arete. If that doesn't stack up to 12c/d it's hard to imagine what does. By reference, H3 is at least as hard, or harder than Amazing Face at the Bowling Alley in Boulder Canyon, and every bit as good.