New Hipster Rock is a recently developed crag conveniently located just west of Tunnel #1 on the north hillside. Only 40' to 50' tall, this south and east-facing crag features six steep routes on good stone. An obvious dihedral splits the crag in the center with three routes left and three routes right of the dihedral. The crag is named for those of us who've had or are in need of some new body parts.
Getting There
Park immediately west of Tunnel #1 on the right (north). This is the same pullout as for The Sports Wall. Looking upstream from the parking pullout, the top of the crag is visible at about 1 O'Clock. The approach is pretty obvious. A trail starts directly above the pullout and initially angles slightly right (away from the crag). Follow this bighorn trail for about 120' then hang a left across a gully below the crag, moving slightly past it, before heading up again. The approach takes 5 to 10 minutes.
The second route from the right. A very fun, gym-like climb up the steep east face using the arete on the left. The crux is half-way up followed by a hard move at the last bolt and then a pumpy finish. It's only 5.7 up to the first bolt....[more]
I had considered making no comment on the crag and route names that Mark posted, but there is some higher lesson to be coaxed from the situation that Mark has reflected in the name selection. Most of my athletic life since junior high school was spent as a runner/ sprinter (100m, 200m, 400m, and 800m), and I have always considered myself more a runner than a climber. After 35 years of interval training on the track, my right hip has reached such a state of degeneration (osteoarthritis) that it has to be replaced, ie total hip replacement surgery, thus the route names. While I am closing out my 50s age-wise, I don't think that age is responsible for the OA so much as the nature of the training over such a long time, hence the higher lesson. If you are serious about training for climbing, or anything for that matter, then you will train hard. What I observe in myself and in others who are single mindedly in pursuit of some sport goal, is that we tend to push past our injuries. Sure, we take a break when we are injured maybe even take some time off. Unlike the pros however, we rarely go running to our doctors for a quick X-ray or any long term follow up. Joint injuries produce instability in the joint and this can lead to repetitive, concussive damage that over the long term generates a progressive degenerative inflammatory state. But this all flies under our radar because we have pushed past the pain long ago. So, one good lesson from this experience is to train hard, as hard as you possibly can, but take the injuries seriously. Consider that the part of the injury that you don't see or ceases to annoy, can set up a long term problem that may well have been avoided. If you have, for example, ripped up a finger tendon then go find out exactly what you have done and act accordingly.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA May 4, 2007
Richard, you should get in touch with Roger Linfield through the site. I believe he had a total hip replacement a year or two ago and did extensive research to find the best and least invasive procedure possible. He ended up going to Europe for the operation and has been very happy with the results. Best luck to you.
By Bill Ballace From: Wheat Ridge , CO Jul 9, 2007
So this crag should have afternoon shade, say after 5:00 pm?
New Hipster Rock
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