Persistent Vegetative State 

So, lemme get this straight. You have for years wondered why such an obvious line had never been bolted, you investigated and found clear evidence of prior ascent, and then rather than investigate and maybe get permission from the FA, you assumed that someone just didn't finish what they were doing and so bolted it up? Does this strike anyone else as odd?

This was not a trad route. In 95 feet of climbing you might get one piece of pro near the top. I doubt it was ever even TR'd and if so - so what? The Little Eiger isn't exact a trad area and there are no wilderness or ethical issues here. Now the climb is open for many to enjoy. In my humble opinion, the climb was abandoned at least twenty years ago. I don't know who or why it was abandoned, but it's a great route and very fun. I'm sure no egos will be trod upon by the installation of this route, it's only 10b. Go enjoy the climb, try to appreciate those who take the time effort and expense to, so that you may have new high quality routes to explore.

Thor

Fair enough. Thanks for the route.

It is likely that a stray anchor in that area was placed by me a long time ago. I accessed the routes on the previously right side of the Little Eiger by soloing along the ledge system, setting an upper anchor, and then rapping and setting lower anchors for the routes. At the time I rapped into that area there was no sign of previous activity. Ultimately, my interest in the Little Eiger did not end due to lack of climbable rock, but an interest in steeper rock elsewhere and the problem of cleaning the routes without sending chunks into the highway. Now would be a great time to get some things in there without bowling for gambling busses, especially along the right side of the crag. Keep up the good work, Thor, and remember all the bolts were placed prior to JeffCo buying the place up........

A fun route with lots of reachy moves to good edges; could be harder than 10b if you're short. Plenty of lichen, dirt and sand to keep you on your toes. The crux is at the 6th bolt, moving up to the base of the final corner with no good handholds. The corner has some great stemming moves and a fun exit at the top.

My partner led the pitch and lowered; I followed and cleaned the draws. This is simpler than cleaning the draws while lowering or rappelling, but is only possible using a 70m rope.

There are 15 bolts on the route.

Fun route! Most of it felt like about 10a to me. The last corner before stepping left to the anchor felt like a 10b move....not great hands with an awkward reach to the clip (at least the way I ended up doing it). We had only a 60m rope and getting down was a bit of a chore with the way that the route trends so much to left. But, it's doable with rapping at the chain at the 4th bolt.

What a great, fun route that follows a neat natural feature, the dihedral. The route is very clean now without any loose rock found during our ascent. Get your feet up at the sixth bolt crux and you will find the key hold. It will feel harder otherwise. The corner exit is classic. The bottom dog tag says 10d but I agree with the 10b rating. Best done with a 70m rope. Nice job, Thor.

New finish up there goes straight up out of the corner to an independent anchor. This should bring us back to the ground a little less left than before. Thor

Fun route! I did in '05 and thought it was 5.10a/b. Easiest to belay from the top and rap straight down with a 60m rope. (Avoids all the hassles.) I've done it every year since and it's still great.