Approach as for Capitalist, but instead of going uphill to the crag, go down the broken hill to the southeast. Lunchmoney is located roughly hundred yards upstream from Capitalist Crag. The chains are obvious from this point. There is a belay bolt on the ledge at the start of the climb. Climb up the steep face, pull through weakness in the roof to easy ledge system. The last three clips on the upper wall is the crux on a beautiful smooth flake. Rap 100 feet to ground.
Protection
1 belay bolt on ledge, 9 protection bolts, and chains anchors.
This is a very good climb. It definitely deserves 3 stars for clear creek and about 2 stars for everywhere. Two sustained sections with the crux on the upper part. Excellent climbing overall. Awesome Casey Bernal
A gorgeous route, highly recommended. It has excellent variety-- edges, a little roof, slab, lieback-- lot's of fun. Nice job, Darren, at spying and equipping an excellent line.
Well, after all the above, I hardly need to add my comments. Obviously this is a fine addition to Clear Creek, thanks to Mr Mabe for putting in the work on this one. One of the best of its grade in the canyon! Of course this may mean that this area starts to see a bit more traffic. I bet there are a few more good lines on this rock that just need a bit of vision and a lot of cleaning.
As a side note, the gear is really well placed on this route, great boling job.
Definitely 3 stars for Clear Creek.
Definitely a bit harder that what I would call a 5.9, but maybe not quite solid 10a. Probably harder than some other 9/10a's in the canyon (e.g. at Highwire).
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Oct 19, 2002 rating: 5.9+
Great route. Thoughtful start. Excellent finish. What a find. At least as good as People's Choice. Also, an interesting TR variation (we called Spare Change, 5.9) that takes the face between the cracks on the upper bit.
This was a very nice route indeed. I appreciated the variety of climbing in addition to it being sustained. The bolts were nicely placed and in such a way that they did not take the thrill out of leading this climb. Well done!
Although this route is certainly a new bolted sport route, my climbing buddy claims that while he was threading the anchor at the top to lower off, he looked slightly up and to the left and spied an old piton suggesting that a first ascent happened some time long ago. It never ceases to amaze me that no matter where I go I can find clues left from those that were there before.
Speaking of such evidence, there is a lot of trash around the base of both New Capitalist Crag and Capitalist Crag. Mostly broken glass, bullet shells, and shot gun shells. The next time I visit this area, I plan on bringing a couple of bags and picking up some of the more obvious trash. I hope others will consider giving back to our great outdoors in the same way.
The pin was noticed before Lunchmoney was bolted. We believe that the pin was part of an ascending traverse that passed the base of Stroh's and continued up to the large ramp/ledge at the base of Contra. The pin probably protected the hardest section of climbing at about 5.4 and the rest is third or fourth class. There was also a very old Stroh's beer bottle found at the base of Stroh's (the route), but it is believed that it wasn't used for pro.
Chris and Casey: In the Contra route description, I think Darren mentions an optional approach 'pitch' that continues above Lunchmoney, through loose fifth class (where the pin is). This is not recommended, but more of a historical note. Best approach is Mounty.
Anonymous-Thanks. I believe I was the first to lead that "link-up" from Lunchmoney to Contra and the section that the pin is on is above the anchors of Lunchmoney between the Stroh's and Contra ledge systems.
The section of rock that Lunchmoney is on was never climbed before Brandon and Darren's ascent. If it was climbed there was no protection till the roof at about 50 feet up and no evidence of pin scars on the whole route. Any aid climbing would have been about A4 or higher on hooks/heads till the roof and the crux section would take tricky offset nuts or cams or good heads. This scenario is very unlikely at the time that the old pin was placed.
Fun, thoughtful moves below a small roof band. The last 15 feet are on wonderful stone. A potentially significant concern is that the belayer looses sight of the leader once the leader has passed the roof band. Even double slings at the belay did not abrogate the problem. A small TCR was useful above the roof.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Jul 18, 2005 rating: 5.10b
Maybe I missed the easiest sequence, but I found the upper headwall to be harder than 9+ and a little scary at that. It was hard to commit to the moves to make the 9th clip (2nd bolt on headwall), and there wasn't a good stance or jug to make the clip. I was afraid if I came off before the clip that I'd hit the ledge below the headwall. Your belayer can't see you at this point either.
Nevertheless, a great route with sustained, steep climbing in the lower section, a fun roof, and a committing and pumpy finish.
There are 10 bolts on the route. There isn't a belay bolt at the start, but there is a loop of perlon around a small chockstone that can be used for a belay anchor.
By Walldahl From: Golden, CO Jul 27, 2006 rating: 5.10a
Move for move it felt like 5.9+ and they made you think. Although, it is steep (steeper than it looks on the approach), sustained, and with a beautiful crux at the end...while you're pumped. Awesome setting with the river in the background and away from the road.
Fun route..We actually tied off a cordelette on the 1st bolt ( boo hiss ) but it allowed the belayer to observe the leader on the headwall. Remember your layback tech, and trust your feet! I found a nice start..clip bolt #1, then move down the ramp a few feet, and climb up just to the right of the first bolt. Maybe mid 5.11...more like a boulder problem, but I would not want to fall off of it w/o a rope attached.
Lower Capitalist Crag
RSS Feed
