Travis Trigg and I worked hard last week to get Tsunami of Charisma established. We deserve equal credit for the route. This one is destined to become a Little Eiger classic!
There is a dog tag on a hangerless bolt, with route name, grade and length at the base of the climb. Tsunami of Charisma really is a full 35 meters!
Temporarily, the second from the last climb to the right (west). Place a longer draw on the first bolt to avoid drag. Flash pump out the big roof 5.11, it's not as chossy as it looks. Cruise up easy face to a small overhang. Gain a thin friction slab and crimp past five clips 10d/11a, continue on steep rock to the anchor 5.9+. In the 5.9 section there is one block I am a little concerned about. We marked it with an "X" of chalk and will try again soon to get it to go! For now, take care not to use it.
The first bolt is placed far to the right to minimize rope drag. However, a fall on the first bolt will spin and slam you against the right wall as the climb starts well left. To avoid getting abused and or flipped you should climb with your rope over your right arm/shoulder. This will give you a clean fall with no risk of a spin or flip. The other option is to stick clip the second bolt, but then you will not have actually led the crux. I discovered this by falling on the first bolt several times and stopping upside down with my head about a foot over the ground. Once I placed the rope over my shoulder, the fall was much safer.
Thor
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jul 20, 2006 rating: 5.11b
Thanks for the TR! That's a fun start. Slab felt stiff at 11-, but I'm not a slab master. Thanks for these fun route additions on the right side of Little Eiger! Addendum: went back & did the slab starting to the right is a bit easier.
By Dan Godshall From: Colorado Springs, CO Aug 14, 2006 rating: 5.11c
Start and slab felt a little stiff for CCC 11a/b. Once the ledges directly above the overhang clean up, this should be a really fun route!
By Darren Mabe From: Goulden, CO Jul 20, 2007 rating: 5.11b
Excellent route and great vision! Better than Natural Selection. can clip second bolt from trick kneebar. upper slab moves are fantastic.
Little Eiger
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