People's Choice 

First, to clarify--Myke means that you can just reach the 1st belay ledge w/ a 60m when rapping from the very top. Also--the new route to the right of PCs is only 1 pitch and about 5.9 and includes a large flake to lieback about 1/2 way up. You can still climb this variation, then head over to the second pitch of PCs. Finally, Myke must have had his marshmellow shoes on, because theres not an abscence of holds for the hands at the crux on P1--they are just subtle.

Comments to Ben- comment. The route to the right of PC is called "Nickles and Dimes", AKA "IQ Test" A hint, using the flake fails the IQ test. Stay left on the face and it just gets thinner and better with a run-out to the last bolt. My guess for a rating is 10ish on the face and maybe 5.8 with the flake. By the way, head left of the dihedral pitch on PC for even more fun, four new routes in all.

Ryan "Rhyno" Smith - This climb was the hardest lead that I have ever done. It was an amazing climb, but we didn have enough gear to safely complete it (damnit)! This climb is a ton of fun, but unless you know exactly what your partner is doing, I recommend getting a couple two-way radios to let each other know what the hell you'r e doing- I had a really hard time knowing what my partner was doing and vice versa from the noise of the cars and stream. What a great climb!!!

This is the best sport rout I've ever climbed, hands down! Personally, I found the fist 50 feet the most fun, I love slab climbing. It's easy to get short on the gear if you don't come prepared, however, the bolts are close enough that, if you're comfortable, you could get by with only clipping every other one (especially on the 5.8 section). Great climb!

10d is a bit generous, if you move L near the top of the dihedral. 10a perhaps for the first section though some ole trad, slab climbers called it 9. Still fun.

AC-did you do the second (crux/.10d) pitch, or are you talking about the first? Because the second pitch is not a slab.

People's Choice is definitely one of the best sport routes in Colorado. I dig the first slab pitch - 10a-ish is probably right. Stemming and pulling up the crack in the upper dihedral is a blast too. Only at Sitting Bull Falls and Enchanted Tower in New Mexico have I had this much fun sport climbing!

Makes one nice long pitch with a 70 meter rope. With a few long runners, and skipping some bolts on the midsection, rope drag is no trouble. One rap on a doubled 70m takes you easily down to the 3rd-class ramp.

you do not need a 70m rope to do this climb in 1 pitch. it is 50m long, with 22 bolts if you clip the anchors, less QDs if you skip a few.

PC has cold shut anchors at each belay. A run through in the spring of 2002 indicated that they were still in excellent shape. Nonethless, one should check them from time to time.

A fine two pitch route indeed with 3 cruxes! The slab bulge on P1, moving through the middle of the dihedral on P2, and then another slab bulge after exiting the dihedral. Nice job!

However, I must be climbing this wrong along with everyone else (at least based on the chalk evidence) " The crux comes out after exiting the dihedral - swing right, up, clip, and finish to the bolts."

I've always exited the dihedral, moved LEFT, then up over the slabby bulge and then zipped up to the anchors. Does the route go RIGHT after the dihedral? Yikes, very thin, very airy - I'll have to try it!!!

I tried this route today, and was also drawn to the left after exiting the dihedral. I think I too was misled by the line of well-chalked holds. But looking down from the belay, I saw the adequate holds just off to the right. Perhaps the funky pocket near the bulge of the roof would have made a great foothold?

The whole route is 5.9+ max if you jog left at the top of the dihedral. You can stem rest through the whole dihedral and the holds are huge. The slab is classic edge balancing slab. It is overprotected so it is good for someone who is stepping into the 5.10 grade.

The best climb on the High Wire Crag. Through not difficult, it is a good route for beginners to find out how good they really are. The multi-pitch climb will also test their wits of heights. Wear a bright colored shirt as the cars driving up the canyon will see you very easily. A very exposed wall for the road and the sun as well. A very fun route and a must once up on High Wire.

Another run up this route has convinced me that the natural line is left of the bolts above the stemming corner on the second (last) pitch. You are clearly pulled by a good crimp and pocket to the left, which in turn makes you put both feet on the big ledge. Then it is just a question on how far left of the next two bolts you go. The farther left toward the diagonal right facing corner you go, the easier the moves. A quick look at Rolofson's guide confirms a dashed line left of the bolts above the ledge. The technical crux is probably the final slab moves on the first pitch.

This is a great [route], it has [awesome] moves and lots of great exposure. In the book, it is broken down into three pitches, however, I [recommend] doing it all in one pitch. You need a 60m rope and should be confident with climbing 10a slab. I only used 2 bolts before I got to the overhanging dihedrial. I also think this route could be done via trad, and it might call for a boost in the grade. However one chooses to do the route, it is a blast.

Very nice route. I led the first pitch and I found that the handholds through the crux section are just big enough for a non-slabmaster like me to make it up without difficulties....

Fun route. Although communicating with our partner is difficult because of the road/river noise.

This was my first climb ever and it was a blast! Starting off was relatively easy, but it got really bare around the middle and there wasn't much for my hands. Fot those who haven't climbed it before, I recommend going to the right to utilize the protruding rock for something to get a hold of. A good instructor, which we had, you don't have to worry about the fear that the rock creates and you can have great success on this fun rock.

Nice varied route, I found it a little reachy clipping the crux bolt on P3 after exiting the dihedral. All in all, great route with fun climbing and cool exposure.

Sorry to burst anyone's bubble, but there is no way this is a 5.10d, or suddenly this summer I've finally hit my goal of climbing 5.10d clean with no warm ups.

However...I [did] move left, not right after the dihedral, and I regret it. So, maybe there's one 5.10d move on an otherwise 5.8+/5.9 route.

Compared to some of the hard 5.9's Ii've climbed in CO, this route is much easier. A comparable 5.10a dihedral is [Hospital Corner] at [Lover's Leap] at [Tahoe] - and that was a legit 5.10a. This was way, way soft (like all grades at the [High Wire Crag]).

That said, it was way, way cool! Great hand jams, the feet are all there, and I felt that it must have been set by someone my height ('5"9). Perhaps reachy for smaller people...the bolts are, well, a bit much. I used all 13 draws and slings I brought on the last pitch - and still missed one.

cheers,alpinista.

A terrific climb. Beautiful rock, natural line... can protect the whole line traditionally (if you begin with the trad line to the right as first pitch). Edging up the bulge on the first pitch is certainly the crux (5.10a). Stemming up the corner on the last pitch is 5.9, and exiting left may reach 5.10. Enjoy this beautiful climb (and quit chalking the hell out of it).

Darren and I added a bolt to the top of the P3 anchors. It is a 75mm Triplex with a Fixe double ring hanger. This backs up the cold-shuts that need to be replaced. It adds a bit of comfort while rapping or lowering.

Casey/Darren:
This is a question borne from naivety, not criticism. Why add a new bolt rather than just replace the two worn coldshuts?
However accomplished, I greatly appreciate your efforts in replacing worn out anchors.

Jeff - Thanks for your recognition and thanks for asking. The basic reason is: time. In addition, the cold-shut hangers have little wear on them. We just have some trepidation about the non-visible part of the bolt. We thought our effort was most efficient by just adding 1 bombproof bolt to an 8 year old anchor, an anchor that a climbing party would be entirely relying on.

I was quite impressed with the Triplex and would be happy to replace the rest. The main downside to that hanger & bolt combo is that it retails for $22.90 each, though that will be forgotten long before it needs to be replaced. I replaced the P1 anchors 4? years ago and they look good. We just have to find the time, and choose to do the work (as opposed to climbing).

Casey & Darren,

Thanks for fixing the anchor. I too had noticed the wear and tear recently. I had pursued ASCA about getting some hardware for projects like this one, but they never responded. I guess you have to be in some sort of "in crowd" or something. The popularity of the routes in this area will necessitate future maintenance I'm sure.

TZ

Climbers that were forced to bail off People's Choice today because of rain, please email me. I have pictures for you.

Very nice.

I had to leave a draw half way up the third pitch of People's Choice. If anyone happens to be up that way and retrieves it, there would be a beer reward for you. I greatly appreciate it. I was climbing on Monday Nov. 3rd in the afternoon.