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Curvaceous 

5.11c/d

   

FA: Richard Wright, 1998
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 1,292 page views

Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Apr 29, 2001


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you can see the three roofs of the climb: the firs...


Description 

This long route pulls over multiple roofs on solid Clear Creek rock between Little Kitten (to the left) and the sweet arete climb Wet Dream (to the right). There can be bits of loose rock on the ledges after the roofs, be careful not to bombard your belayer. I found the first overlap to be slightly difficult to clip, although the final crux roof up high, was very well protected and more fun than words. Excellent from bottom to top, my favorite route on Wall of 90s for the moves, exposure, and length.


Protection 

100 ft. route (60m rope stretcher) with 15 bolts plus 2 bolt anchor. Tie a knot in the end of the rope.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 9, 2008
By MARSHALL BRITTLE
Sep 25, 2001

This is great climbing. I've been climbing C. Creek for 3 years and just got on the route Sun. I am not a strong climber, I want to get that straight, and I don't think I can on sight 5.11c/d. Does the grade hold strong??? 5.11b or maybe low 5.11d are my thoughts. Clear Creek seems to be rated heavy compared to the rest of the world.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 25, 2001

I was going with 5.11c myself.

By Chris Dawson
Nov 11, 2001

I have to go with 5.11a max. This route had one 11 move at the third "crux", but you get an awesome rest before and after it. All the ledges make for a very easy onsight. Without those, it might be harder.

By Nate Weitzel
Nov 11, 2001

I would second Chris, good route to onsight, lots of good rests, but the hard moves are straightforward. On par with Refer Madness in difficulty, although the style is vastly different.

By JDory
Jun 26, 2003

Did this route last week. 11c/d is generous. The roof starts well, a little tricky, but ends in a "positive" sense. Certainly worth the drive down! A must do Clear Creek route! I say b or b/c.

By Edward Jenner
Sep 4, 2003

Fun route. Lots of 10+ and 11- crux's with rests in between. I think the first little roof is harder than the large one.

By Andrew James Pierce
Mar 13, 2004

You know...I was shimmying my way up Curvacous and had to tweak it over the first roof, but it wasn't until the final overhang when I finally got the lead out.

By Andrew James Pierce
Mar 13, 2004

You really need to tweak it on the first roof...but it wasn't until the last overhang when I really got the led out!

By Bob Rotert
From: Broomfield, Co
Nov 7, 2004
rating: 5.11a

Boy, I can not believe the grade inflations on some of these sport routes these days. To rate this 11c/d is a hugh ego stroke. I believe this route would maybe be rated 10+ if done in the 80's. Good comparison route would be to go do Guenese in Eldorado. Guenese is rated 11a now, I believe Erickson rated 10+ when he freed it and that is with going thru the roof on the first pitch and not utilizing the cheater belay under the roof. This is an awesome route but some of the folks out there really need a reality check on the ratings cause they sure ain't using what I know as the YDS rating system.

By micah stocker
Nov 12, 2004

I agree with Bob this route a great route but not worth the rating. However, maybe the people who put this route up rated it 11c/d to discourage people from climbing it. There are some fragile flakes up there. So for those people who man up to this route they get an ego boost, while other climbers who could easily onsight this are driven away by the rating. It is kind of a good ideal for preserving the route. However, like Abraham Lincoln said "you can fool some of the people some of the time, but you can't fool all the people all the time." I think at the top there should be a little sign that tells the climber what they really just climbed. Still a three star route. A three star 10d/11a. Take it from me I onsighted this with a hang over, and vomit all over my shirt, oh-yeah don't forget a broken finger. As for CCC, it is relatively a new climbing area, people should give the place a chance. Just like Eldo in the 80's the grades were f..., so with time the grades will become more consistent. Especially with assholes like me writing their two cents!

By a concerned user of the world wide web
Nov 13, 2004
rating: 5.9+

Why not 10b? If you can onsight this, you shouldn't have too much trouble with 11c routes at Rifle. The "contributors" who seem to think they're adding to this site by whining about the good old days or about how other states (California?) are graded so much harder might better spend their time working on harder climbs. The surest sign of an over-the-hill climber is constantly referring to Eldorado Canyon as the benchmark for rock-climbing. The second-surest is complaining about overgrading at the 5.11 level. And the third-surest is posting tthose comments on this website

By ac
Nov 13, 2004
rating: 5.11c

_ Nicely said.

By ac
Apr 24, 2005
rating: 5.11c

This route is in the 5.10 to 11a range only to internet spraylords and the hopelessly insecure. Definitely not Rifle or Eldo 11c/d, but pretty consistent with most modern sport ratings.

By Luke Evans
Sep 6, 2005

Lots o' Bird turds and Rope Drag? Go do it!

By Bob Rotert
From: Broomfield, Co
Oct 9, 2005
rating: 5.11a

Just one more comment and I will leave it at that. I would say folks who seem to get defensive about other peoples opinion and post their comments as AC seem insecure to me. That is my opinion. 11c/d should be 11 c/d whether in Eldo, Rifle, Clear Creek or Yosemite, or done in the 70's, 80's, 90's or the Millineum. That's the purpose of a standard rating system.

By cameron
Feb 11, 2006

I'd have to agree with Rotert. That is the reasoning of standards - to create consistency. Some climbs are quite dependent upon the climbers heighth and size (say finger) - this is the only time a rating should fluctuate much beyond two letter ratings. And this coming from a relatively new climber (12 years or so on technical rock). . . . I guess that blows the "old-timers" theory into the shitter.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Feb 14, 2006

Here is the central issue missing from the present discussion. Grading any climb is a subjective process of refinement and consensus, and the posting of new routes in a public forum before the rotes have appeared in print allows the process of refinement and consensus to unfold in a timely manner. It is important to understand that when a new route goes in, and that is when Curvaceous got its grade, the grade applied reflects only the impression at the time. It is nearly a universal truth that running a route a few times, with different climbers, improves the ascent. The initial ascent is usually, more likely always, inefficient and done wrong. Unless one is putting in new routes, it's hard to imagine how often a line seems very difficult when done on jugs, with the difficulty melting away on the FFA. Equally often, a bollixed up sequence gets logged into the brain on jugs, and when the route is run for the FFA, the bollixed up sequence is used again!!! The mind is a damnable thing. Just recall Chris Sharma on the Mandala: he almost called V16 after the FFA, only to have it shake down to V12 when consensus finally arrived. And this from someone with all kinds of experience to back up his giving the grade. The idea that some ego thrust is at stake in giving a grade is nearly humorous at the 5.11 level. We all know climbers that can hardly tell the difference between 5.9 and 5.11. Frankly, rather than assuming the worst about the climber giving a first impression, imagine that your own ascent contributes valuable experience to the assessment of the grade. Get it out there and see how the dust settles. More often than not consensus will yield the proper grade, and not the FFA. My own occasional return to the route in question has me leaning more to 11a as well. Now it is hard to imagine why we were doing it in a more difficult way than was required, but one way this happens is to do a route with poor efficiency - but still succeed. Is there any climber out there who has not refined their moves by repeating a route only to find it easier than they first imagined? So, here is a suggestion for all of the new first ascent data posted here (or anywhere for that matter). We can give the FFA grade a "T" designation (T for tentative), for example 5.11b(T), and when the grade for the route has been finally consolidated we can dispose of the tentative designation.

By chris deulen
From: Duluth, MN
May 15, 2006
rating: 5.11c

Fantastic route. Fun, somewhat pumpy.

By Dana
From: Philadelphia
May 11, 2008

This seemed closer to 5.10c/d. Who knows?

By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 9, 2008
rating: 5.11c/d

Isn't grading more of a general guideline? I can usually onsight 11c, especially in CCC. However, this route beat me down. Maybe it's the length, or the overganging nature, or the pump I had. I did another 11c at the same crag right before and this felt harder.