P1 of Centerfold takes the dihedral corner of the huge right-facing dihedral in the middle of the Wall of The 90s. The seldom done second pitch runs up the overhangs directly above. P1 is a great warm up for the harder climbs on the wall, works well as as a top rope, and provides access to the top of Ten Digit Dialing.
P2 is a lot more fun than it looks, and it is unfortunate that it sees such little traffic. The climbing on P1 is generally obvious until the last move, just keep the stems going and it will pose little difficulty.
P1 also makes a nice entry to leading 5.10 being a safely bolted climb with lots of good climbing features and a crux right at the end. Stems, jams, and edges abound to make the climbing overall really enjoyable.
Protection
QD only. This two pitch route needs 7 - 8 draws for each pitch and something for the douple bolt anchors at the top of each pitch. Double ropes rap 100 ft to the ground from the top of pitch two, or bring a 60 meter rope.
Note: this route was essentially excavated from layers of decomposed and loose rock and thus, this would NOT have been anywhere near reasonable to lead on gear in its original state.
All due respect to the first ascensionist, but I cursed him thoroughly as I lowered off the 2nd pitch anchors. The anchor bolts are arranged so that the rope MUST go into a crack with a sharp edge. Thought it was going to slice my rope like a knife through butter.
I moved those anchors precisely to prevent this problem, and my own trip through after the shift produced no threat of shredding the rope. Can you help me out here?
Peter, I will take the credit about the offwidthing the end. Full body (munes one leg) in that sucker. That is a tight squeeze in there wouldn't suggest it to anyone over 145 lbs. You may get stuck, expecially towards the top. Once you figure out how to get your feet up on the block inside the crack you are set. But good luck, feels a little harder than 5.9 done this way. But a bit of fun, being protected by bolts and all.. Cheers.
The second pitch is of high quality although there are a few spots of bird dookie. I found the crux to be down lower than where it is shown on the topo at a wide spot in the crack, above that it never felt harder than 10.b. I had a hell of a time trying to lower back to the anchor at the top of Reefer Madness as I was left swinging in the air about 20 feet out from the belay. The rope got stuck in the crack a few times (this was on 06/03/02) and I started to fear a mini epic with a stuck rope or worse a cut rope as a swung out to free it. I found out that it was only 100 feet to the ground from the top anchor only after I got down but would not have thought I was would be able to make it with a single rope just by looking at it, oops. My advice, do not try to lower or clean your own gear off this route and be careful where the rope lies when rapping back to the ground.
I did P1 only today and it was an enjoyable warm-up worth doing.Bomber GEAR is as follows: a set of cams up to a 3.5 Camalot/4 Friend plus a 5 Camalot/6 Friend and a set of nuts. No doubles on anything since the pitch is only 60 ft. or so. Why is P1 bolted???
If the top of P1 is done using the OW, the climb feels a bit stiffer than 10a. There is a small section of hand crack in the back and a nice left foot behind you (if done left side in), chicken winging is also an option. I managed a good chest/fist jam which resulted in a bruised sternum. Good rainy day fun for the stemming impaired.
This climb as well as many others in this area were essentially excavated from layers of decomposed and loose rock. Although that may be hard to believe when doing 10 Digit Dialing and others now this would NOT have been anywhere near reasonable to lead on gear in its original state.
By Matt whiteman From: Denver, CO Nov 3, 2006 rating: 5.9+
I hate to repeat what has already been said, but this route goes extremely well on gear. I used Camalots #0.5, 2-#1s, #3, and a #4, and a bunch of medium wires.
Led first pitch sometime last year, went out to work Ten Digit last week and top roped through the 2nd pitch and found the largest pile of bat crap I have ever seen. And you have to get disturbingly close to it to continue making progress. I think it bubbled a few times. Sounds funny until it's right there in front of you...gross.
I agree with the above comments about climbing this on gear, I am personally disappointed that this is bolted. This is an ultra-safe and straight-forward lead, and a near classic for the grade. Too bad it isn't any longer.
By jfox From: Black Hawk, CO Aug 12, 2008 rating: 5.14d X
I'd love to go back and lead this one on gear. I too am confused as to why it was bolted. It looked as if it would greedily gobble great gobs 'o gear graciously. Great!
Wall of the '90s
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