Solid Gold is a five pitch route that runs 450 ft up the right side of Creek Side. The line picks out the best features of the grey and black slab that starts 20 ft above the water and then fires up the left side of the huge open-book dihedral that splits the upper section at 300 ft.
P1: (5.9+, bolts and gear) this is a 100ft pitch that goes on bolts and gear and finishes at a double bolt anchor. The rock is solid all the way and kicks out a couple of fun spots.
P2: (5.8, bolts) is also 100 ft long and is largely quite easy with a couple of 5.8 sections, one right off the belay. It finishes on a ledge at a double bolt belay stance. However, for descent purposes, a higher rap anchor was installed that keeps the rope running clean and off the ledge. This stance is ten feet higher than the belay stance.
P3: (5.8, bolts) is close to 100 ft as well and has a nifty sequence in the middle just above a grassy ledge. It finishes at a three bolt stance.
P4: (5.11d/5.12a, bolts) is 80 feet long and picks out a terrific long crux on bullet proof rock. After leaving the belay one encounters a few feet of friable stone leading into the solid gold crux - just take this short section with some care. Pull the bulge above on superb stone with inobvious sequences. This pitch finishes at a three bolt stance.
P5: (5.11d, bolts) is 90 ft long and guns for the lip of the overhang on superb stone. A couple of big reaches will gain the edge of the lip and these are followed by a sub-vertical waltz to the little tree at the top and a double bolt anchor. You do have to watch the footwork on the finishing slab.
For the most part, Solid Gold is a very clean route, however, like most things in Clear Creek it is essential to watch out for any loose rocks. I have cleaned what I think will be climbed, but straying off the line could unearth some dangerous flakes. Fishermen do hang out at the base and are the most troublesome "targets". Rocks ricocheting from the slab will hit the road, trust me. The slab pitches can provide access to new routes (Bob D?) going in left of Solid Gold.
Protection
A 60 meter rope, a dozen draws, and Friends or Camalots in the # 2, 2.5, 3 range. One can rap from the very top in five rappels using just a 60 meter rope. All of the rope pulls are clean and all of the belays are either at double or triple bolt stances. It is, of course, positively essential to tie the ends of the rope at each rappel; three of these will have you rapping to the knot at 100 ft, leaving no room to screw up. A 50 meter rope does not work. We used to have a Tyrolean that crossed the creek adjacent to the start of the climbing, however, this was chopped in September. One can approach from the Dog Wall by hiking along the stream or wade across where the Tyrolean used to be.
Stellar route, at least the first 3 pitches. A dozen draws and two #2 Camalots will do you fine. We ended up bailing midway up pitch 4 on the .11d crux. Watch the feet and wear your helmet. I had a foot hold break off on the start of the crux on pitch 4 that sent me fly'n. Watch for loose holds on first half of pitch 4.
From what I climbed, the only loose section was on pitch 4. The rest of the route was on solid stone, with great positioning. The rappels are nicely spaced for a 60m rope, but make sure and knot the ends. If you use the upper rap anchors at the top of pitch 3 on rappel, it will be close. There is a lower set of anchors on the ledge that make it with slack to spare. Enjoy! Great route!
The start on P4 is crumbly, however, it is only a short way and the rest of the stone is truly "Solid Gold". In rapping the line I did not see an obvious way to bypass this band and still catch the nice climbing above. I think the best idea is simply to tread carefully through this band knowing that this is the only dubious stone. It's a bit spooky though. There is an attractive option, which is not in yet, to run a line 30 feet right of SG from the belay at the top of P3. This line would run through the big roof via a system of seams. I also rapped this and it looks terrific. Pulling the roof will be substantially harder than anything on SG. Must have been colder than hell to run this route so late in the season.
Having soloed (w/rope and a wee bit of aid) the first 2 pitchs 3 times now, I would say you don't really need the cams or any extra gear. This is, of course providing that 5.9 is well with in your ability. I have never placed any gear and was running it out on a clove, ( I'm not trying to look hard) it's just super solid! Also I would like to applaud Mr. Wright for not placing bolts next to such obvious and bomber gear placements. Also, thank you for installing this route as it has made my life a bit easier....more on this next spring....josh
This is an excellent adventure, a clean line through a sea of choss. A hearty thanks to the FA team, this was by far the most exposure I have ever felt in the canyon. Superb bolting job and vision to pick out the line. The 4th pitch felt hard for the grade to me, maybe because it is a long and sustained cux, once through the crappy start the rock really is perfect though. I was surprised by the slab above the cux of the 5th pitch, nuff said...
The crux fourth pitch does have an interesting solution that probably keeps the grade at borderline 5.11. However, this was anything but obvious even after cleaning the pitch. While I won't give away the move, I will say that absolutely nothing on this line was chipped or enhanced in any way. This sounds a little defensive, but once you find the sequence its hard to imagine that wasn't placed there by some enterprising climber. It wasn't. In fact it was a bit funny working the move. I was about to concede the need for a big slopey dyno, and muttered to myself something about "if only there were such and such a sequence possible then the dyno would not be necessary". Sout's honor, within ten seconds I found the alternate move. I think the Gods were handing out favors.
Goes pretty well as a three-pitch climb. Two long & one short pitches. The moderate parts are generously bolted & I'd suggest skipping a few of these if you want to link pitches 1-2 & 3-4. The rotten section doesn't lok like it will ever really clean up & the key hold in this area is a time bomb. I think that, with traffic, this could be the crux someday. Anyway, the bolts in this area are close enough to prevent bodily damage and it's worth tip-toeing through the choss to get to the crux section and the steep one-move crux on the last pitch. No gear other than QDs are needed.
Great line. A true gem in the rough. P1 and p2 can be combined into a nice 195' lead. If you are comfortable with run-outs on 5.7 terrain, you can leave the trad gear at home - otherwise bring 2 gold Camalots for p1. P4 seemed like 5.12a, and p5 seemed like 5.11b at the roof to me. Have at it - it's a great line.
P5 might well be easier than I imagined. Evidently, there is a good horn on the right that may make the swimming over the roof more straight forward; however, it comes at the end of several long pulls below.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jun 26, 2004
2nd time down, found an old ring angle piton just L of bolt 4 of P1 making us wonder if this is a retrobolted old, bold, Kor route (P1-3 and heading R on the slab) :) P1-3 make a very fun, less-than-vertical CC moderate. Still shedding some rocks. Pretty waterfalls after a good rain/hail.
Great route. For all those not sure about the [rating], try linking the last two pitches together, for very solid 12a. Also, very bad rope drag, otherwise not too bad.
Climbed this route back in August and again last week stellar route. First three pitches are a great warm-up to the exciting two pitches ahead. All the anchors are bomber and offer good stances. Even the rappels are great. Fun exposure. Thanks Richard for yet another great C.C.C climb (Anyone know what's going up left of pitch 4?).
In the Fall of 2005 I put in a variation to SG. The variation climbs two new pitches right of the last two pitches of SG but shares the first three pitches and belay stances. SG follows the left line of bolts. Mark and I went up to free the new route and came away feeling that some bolts needed to be moved. I finished this, and a little cleaning, probably in late August or early September, and the new placements will comfortize most of the climbing. Nonrtheless, there is a spot crossing the roof in P5 that remains a bit "necky". Difficulty comes in close to SG, has some very nice sections of climbing, and takes on largely excellent quality rock. If you were on the right hand route, Sean, you were probably on the new one (no name yet).
Don't bring gear. It's a waste. 1st pitch has been re-bolted and has plenty of bolts. 1st pitch also 5.8 instead of the 5.9+ it has been rated before. Lots and Lots of draws, thats all u need. Also the belay stations/rap stations are placed bad. A 70m rope is advised. It took forever with a 60m rope. The 3rd belay station has some webbing on the left side. Just keep your eyes open and you will spot it.
Climbed this fun route last night. At the top of P3 I see that you have 2 options. I'm assuming that we took the proper line to the top, which is straight up from the belay. What is the route to the right rated? The route was pretty fun. Lots of loose crumbly stuff on P4. And to piggyback on what Josh said, no need to bring gear. Some people would not consider the runouts to be runout at all. A worthy route.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jul 27, 2006 rating: 5.12a
While I found the 5th pitch to be no real problem, (save for one hold I significantly reduced the size of whilst hanging from, but is more solid now) the 4th pitch gave me fits, arriving at the technical crux flash-pumped. I still have a small hole in my finger a week later from a tiny crimp I had at the 4th pitch crux.
Good climb with a few easy pitches to warm up on. Pitch Ratings: 5.9, 5.8, 5.7, 5.12a, 5.11c.
Creek Side
RSS Feed
