This route was initially given a 12a rating, but the general consensus seems to be more in the range of 11b. This is a fun route that ascends the right side of the overhang with an interesting hand traverse into a killer crack for a few feet. Overall, this is an enjoyable route with good protection and fun moves.
Having not done Road Rash roof, I can't comment on that comparison. However, the feet are solid and the hands are really much better than they look. This crux section is definitely easier than Officer Friendly (11c) at the Wall of Justice and also easier than the other 11c/d routes on the Wall of Justice. There is a 12a on Anarchy wall that is similar, Power Trip, however the holds are less positive on Power Trip and so it seems harder.
Ahh. More arguments about grades. My pal Luke and I just did this one, and I'm in agreement with the 11b as it stands. In fact, I'm not sure there's a single 5.11 move on the route - but it's pretty sustained for a ways. Note that I'm one of those young sassy idiots who sandbags for fun, and that I'm a nice 6 feet tall, which is good for the somewhat reachy traverse. YMMV.
It would be nice if we could do away with the Anonymous Coward bit. People become anonymously rude for no discernible reason. Whoever this loser is, he apparently doesn't realize that Alan Nelson is the single most significant driver behind Clear Creek climbing. I guarantee he has put up twice as many routes in that canyon as anyone else, and if you have a Clear Creek ticklist, most of the classics are Alan's as well.
With regard to strength, has the anonymous coward pulled off Anarchitect, or Chaos? How about leading Bachar-Yerian? Shut up you moron.
Last time I checked quantity didn't equal quantity. I think that Anonymous Coward's point about chipping is a good one. If you're man enough to do the Bachar-Yerian then you're man enough to take a little criticism.
Matt, I tend to disagree on this point. The anonymous coward is a mask to hide behind. At least Alan is strong enough in his convictions to put his name on his routes and his comments. Who's the coward in this case? Not Alan! Bob D.
Oopps! I guess including your name is prerequisite to being a jerk around here. Hope this clears things up.
I just want to say I'm not a purist. If drilling will get someone through what would otherwise be impossible, and climbers are the main user group of an area, I don't mind it. I don't even mind that many of Mr. Nelson's newer climbs are almost a full number grade soft. If he feels that's what the grade is, that's fine, wait for consensus to sort things out. What I have a huge problem with, however, is when someone drills pockets in something that will go naturally. I think that's weak. Very weak! If you can't pull it, I guarantee you there's someone who will do the job for you. LEAVE THAT JOB TO THEM. You won't get your name in the guidebook for the FA, but that's just the way the game goes.
Alan, mi amigo, I think we all appreciate your efforts to develop crags around the area, but when you drill climbs like Big Dog up, you do the climbing community a disservice, and you seem to think you're a hero for it. No kudos. You destroyed a good natural line, and that's unacceptable. Look at how many .12's there are in the canyon compared to .13's and up. Hard natural lines are a precious commodity, and if you drill them all down to your level, you will have destroyed the future of hard climbing in the metro area. For this, I have no thanks to give.
PS- Let's just say I can keep up with Mr. Drill Happy any day of the week.
Matt and Colin, I agree that chipping is unacceptable. Actually, I suspect Alan feels much the same way, and I would bet you won't see much more of this kind of activity in the future. I say this because this crag is the only place he has ever been involved in chipped routes (as far as I know), and he puts in more routes than anyone I know.
It is the "you're not strong enough to rate your own routes" attitude that I object to. Who cares if a route is rated incorrectly anyway? A lot of times the guy who puts the route in does it once, guesses a rating, and then moves on to the next route. If his guess is wrong, than don't blame him just because it shows up in Rolofson's guide book.
To be fair, Matt's comment implying that Alan puts up routes of poor quality is also bogus, unless you don't like the routes at Anarchy, Wall of Justice, etc. Anarchitect, Matriarch, Presto, Maestro, Ten Digit Dialing, Great Escape, Peer Review - have I named any bad routes yet?
Just because you object to a particular route or rating doesn't mean you should dis someone who on the whole has done a lot of good things for Clear Creek climbing.
My comment never implied anything about either the grades of Alan Nelson's routes nor the level of quality. This could perhaps be inferred from what I wrote, but that's a different matter.
Sure, it's a tired truism that "quantity doesn't equal quality," and maybe it's trite to repeat it. I've done some routes by Alan that I thought were good, others I didn't like. Whatever. I've put up routes that people have loved, routes that people avoid. It's part of the game, and when someone offers me constructive criticism about one of my routes I try to keep an open mind and avoid getting petty and defensive.
What baffles me, however, is the unwillingness of most climbers to address the fact that the "Dog House" hosts three very chipped, very silly routes. Or Sport Park for that matter, or anywhere. Poor examples are being set for the new generation of climbers and no one seems to care.
Climbers in the Front Range used to have a sense of ethics but that's gone now. I'm glad I've moved away. Too many Big Dogs for my taste . . .
Matt, sorry to here you moved away to greener pastures. We will miss you over here on the "Front Range". Just to response to your comments: Alan Nelson is not a habitual chipper and I think as he previously stated he has only be involved in 3-4 cases of chipping, maybe less.The guy has taken more than his fair share of criticism on this site especially from people who don't have the guts to post their name. As for addressing the issue of chipping, the feelings and wants of the Front Range climber are well stated on this site and through a survey. They don't like it and they don't want it done on the crags around the Front Range. That is not a lack of ethics. It is a strong statement to climbers about their actions. Please don't chip. Now it is up to climbers along the Front Range to listen to the majority of climbers and restraint from drilling or chipping holds on crags in the Front Range Area. Bob D.
Bob, I think Alan Nelson deserves all the criticism he gets. He deserves to get it as long as those routes stay in their present condition because the message they send now to every climber that knows about them is, "chipping will be tolerated by Colorado climbers."
I just redpointed this route today after working it for weeks. This route combines the best of both worlds in crimpy face climbing moves followed up by a powerful overhang. Whatever the grade, this is a fantastic route.
What a kick. I may have been on Hot Dog with Alan at the FA or perhaps second ascent. Regardless, HD has a cool sequence in the hand traverse and nice movement at the end of the traverse. Two stars in Clear Creek.
By Paul Hunnicutt From: Boulder, CO Mar 8, 2008 rating: 5.11b
I thought this climb was super fun.
Not really stressed or too upset, but seems no need for any chipped or drilled holes on this entire wall (or anywhere). Would these climbs be soooo much harder without them? And even then - leave it for someone stronger. I much appreciated someone developing the cliff, but leave the rock natural for everyone to challenge themselves on. Truth is when I was up there climbing I couldn't tell anything was drilled...only read about it here.
I did think the move on the rail traverse was 5.11 actually. I didn't heel hook, well I did the first time and got too pumped trying to set it - I couldn't find a good spot. Then I just kind of campused along the rail, got my feet set and hit the good right hand gaston up high. The rest was not hard movement, just a bit pumpy. Not sure the extra anchors higher up add much...I'd avoid the risk of falling back onto the ledge while climbing up to them next time.
There is kind of a knee bar using a little horn for your right foot below the traverse section...if you need to rest here after the initial technical face.
The Dog House
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