Hot Stuff may be the best warm up route on the Wall of The 90s. It follows a line left of the great roof system and is belayed off a large flat ledge. Facing west, this is a perfect place to climb, to tan, or just dig the traffic flowing endlessly up Clear Creek. If you listen carefully you can just hear the loose change clanging in all of the pockets heading up to Black Hawk. Hot Stuff is never more than vertical, and for the most part offers great edge climbing with a lot of continuity. An awkward little pillar presents the only conceptual problem at about 65 ft. Hang a bit right and swim up on excellent holds with good feet. The technical crux follows shortly and is mostly thin and a bit committing, but the pro is great and the creep factor minimal. Three stars for quality climbing, well bolted, with lots of continuity.
Protection
QD only. At 130 to 140 ft, Hot Stuff is a long route for a sport climb. Take 16 or so draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. Double ropes are a must since there is no mid point anchor (unless you use a 70m rope).
By Tim Kline From: Littleton, co Sep 28, 2008 CONDITION REPORT
Be careful of loose rocks right above the Arete, right after you complete the arete be cautious of what you grab on the right hand side. I have a pretty big hold pull off on me yesterday, it was probably the size of a laptop or so. I marked up the area a bit with chalk Xs.
Hot Stuff is yet one of the best climbs that I have done in the Canyon. The exposure, length, and sequence moves on this climb make it a great route. If you are looking for a good, extended one-pitch climb in the canyon that is not too hard, but still offers some challenge, hit this climb. You will have a sweet time!
Just saw under comments for "Hey Good Lookin'" (right next to this route) that the first clip is gone from Hot Stuff. Sorry to hear that. I do not do much sport climbing, so I usually feel less secure on sport/face routes than in cracks, and I appreciate the bolts being there! I certainly hope it reappears. This is a nice route.
By Derek Lawrence From: Bailey Jul 3, 2001 rating: 5.10b
As of 7/02/01, the first bolt is back in place. I would also agree that this is one of the best climbs in the canyon - certainly one of the best 5.10s. A Must Do!
3/11/02 - All bolts and holds in place--this route kicks ass! One thing to consider, though. Since the leader has to trail a second rope for the rap, you've got quite an added load by the time you hit the high crux--decent pump factor if you're a weekend warrior like me. Eat your wheaties!
You don't need to trail a second rope, just climb to top, anchor yourself, pull up the rope (through the draws), drop the rope. You then have your belayer lower you (cleaning the draws, which sometimes poses a problem), when your belayer notices you are close to the end, anchor in. Your belayer then ties in the second rope while you anchor yourself to an existing bolt. The belayer passes the knot between the two ropes while your anchored..that's my way, but i'm sure there are others.
Good call. Once you top out, pull your rope up through the draws, tie it off and toss it down to the belayer. He ties the other rope on, haul the knot up to the anchors and clean the route on rappel. The route is so straight and the anchors are perfectly placed for toproping using the two ropes...no drag at all or directionals needed.
Doing it this way requires anyone toproping it to anchor in at the 3rd bolt while the belayer passes the knot.
An absolute "Must Do" in Clear Creek! But what the hell? Why not just trail the second rope (or better yet since we're supposedly still a "team" (even though it's a sport-climb)) have your belayer follow and clean and trail the extra rope. That way, you both get to do the route and and get to avoid any "mid-climb" rope transfer hassles.
Agreed, old fart. Having the second trail a rope and clean is a good, uncomplicated way to address the length of this route. Long, sustained, and fun route!
WARNING... there's a big block (100-150 lbs?) just down and to the left of the anchors on this one that looks like it's barely hanging in there.... The cracks on different sides of it are rotted-- the situation wigged me out a bit. Be nice if someone could clean this on out of there, but due to the height and possible other dangers it could be a dangerous project. If it comes down on a climber, s/he'd be toast... My partner tapped it and said it sounded loose; I didn't even want to touch the thing before I rapped and moved the hell down the cliff. Be aware.
By Tim Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Jun 11, 2004
Good suggestion about trailing the second rope with the follower, Dave. We did that as well. Very fun route. We were pressed for time after work, but will check out the other routes soon. The looming wall across the creek beckons.
Would disagree with Richard Wright a little bit. The "awkward pillar" does bulge beyond vertical a bit and is pumpy for a leader at this level, like me! Still, a great route! Was especially good today with the canyon closed to thru traffic and trucks.
You can escape left to the anchors of Leftover Stuff at bolt #11 with a shoulder-length runner. This keeps ya from having to bring a second rope, and only miss out on the last two clips of easier climbing.
Very fun climbing. An excellent sport climb on great stone. The crux (getting thru the sharp-shinned "pillar"/roof) felt like 10c'ish - I went up the left side of this "pillar". . . maybe the right side is a bit easier, but it seems off-route. Some of the "Goldshuts", are slight spinners. For the good stone and fun movement, and the length, I'd give 'er 3 stars at 10b/c.
By Chris O'Connor From: Boulder, Co Jun 25, 2007 rating: 5.10a
I'll put in a second vote for escaping to the anchors on Left Over Stuff. With that exit, it's a perfect 30m pitch. 4 stars in my book.
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