Farthest left route on Wall of the '90s. Starts about 30' uphill from the Hot Stuff ledge. This may be one of the best 5.6s in the canyon (if not the only one). Surprisingly great and clean stone and all jugs. Bolted well for the grade.
Protection
6 bolts & two bolt lowering anchor on a good ledge.
Great climb for a beginner to toprope. A little runout for the 5.6 leader, though.
By Jason Gilbert From: Lakewood Apr 27, 2009 rating: 5.7
Good climb, nice quick access if you're in a hurry or have a short day. It felt harder than 5.6 (Maybe 5.7) but it had been raining and the water streak 3/4 the way up was flowing pretty good. A lot of the holds near the water are slimy right now.
By Kevin Cossel From: Boulder, CO Aug 23, 2009 rating: 5.6
This is a nice, easy sport lead for a competent 5.9 follower, and thus a good intro lead for those people. I think that the R rating in the guidebook pertains to 5.6/5.7 level climbers (because of a 10-15 foot runout between bolts 2 and 3, this is protectable with a cam to the right if desired). After the last bolt, staying right is easier than heading left -- the anchors are directly above you but not visible.
Also, the route is a good practice for learning trad. I was able to find nice gear placements (several stoppers up to about #6 and cams up to #3 camalot) throughout most of the route, but beginning trad leaders can also clip any of the bolts if necessary.
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