Start on PVS (Persistent Vegetative State) and clip up to bolt 5. Instead of following PVS up the corner climb straight up past 6 bolts to the anchor. The crux is the arete about 2/3's of the way. Before the crux you will find plenty of sustained 5.10.
A little beta as people are getting spanked. The crux moves climb the face just right of the arete. Many are attempting to go straight up the arete which is really hard. Pinch a tufa-like feature with your right hand, reach up and left to a sloper, crank your feet onto an horizontal thin crack and fire for jugs with your right.
The placement of the bolts lead me to conclude that the face to the right had been intended "off route", so I didn't do it that way. Straight up the arete is probably hard 5.11 and involves a nasty pinch with bad feet. The foot smears are darn near impossible to see at dusk there. I dogged on it before stepping on the bolt. Wish I'd read this first, because it was a heck of a lot harder than the 11 I warmed up on when attempted this way (belly to the bolts).
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jun 29, 2007
For chicken, average climbers out there like me, you can make it probably 10b by staying a bit right of the bolts at about bolts 7-9 and around bolts 11-12. That way, it makes for a terrific moderate line when you're sleep deprived or have to go to work shortly thereafter or just want less than an 11a. Thanks, Thor!
Little Eiger
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