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Guppy 

5.8

   

FA: D.Mabe 3/05
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 115 feet
Views: 1,998 page views

Submitted By: WiledHorse on May 18, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: South Creek Side Wall.


Description 

Guppy is the right of two routes that start from the belay pod above the small pine on the south-facing Creek Side Wall, east side of tunnel 6. Approach by tyrol from cottonwood tree (see comments under Creek Side Area description).

Step around the tree and chase several bolts up to a left-leaning, left-facing dihedral. Pull right around the dihedral and continue up past a small roof, and finish up the black rounded arete and the anchors. Lower or rap exactly 35m back to the pod. A 60m rope will certainly not make it. If you are careful when you pull the rope, it won't get wet... the tyrol line and pine tree will catch most of it.

Guppy is a long fun route with superb stone, huge positive holds, and consistent climbing!


Protection 

13 protection bolts. 2-bolt lowering anchor.



Photos of Guppy Slideshow Add Photo
Butt shot of me starting up Guppy from the pod.

Butt shot of me starting up Guppy from the pod.

Nearing the top of this long route.

Nearing the top of this long route.

Me belaying lil sis up Guppy.  Notice that I'm 10 feet above the pod on at a hanging belay because a 60m ROPE WILL NOT REACH THE POD.

BETA PHOTO: Me belaying lil sis up Guppy. Notice that I'm 10 ...

Dayna on her way up Guppy.

Dayna on her way up Guppy.

Climber approaching the crux.

Climber approaching the crux.

Climbers on Guppy.

Climbers on Guppy.

Climber on Guppy at Creekside buttress, Brennivin looms above in the background.

BETA PHOTO: Climber on Guppy at Creekside buttress, Brennivin ...


Comments on Guppy Add Comment
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By Jerome Stiller
From: Golden CO
May 18, 2005
rating: 5.9-

Yup, what Darren said. Great route, fun climbing all the way, I thought fairly easy for a .9 but not over-bolted, some spicey almost run-outs on the easier sections. Bolts are brand new and placed with either loving care or extreme obsessiveness - take your pick!

By Kim
May 31, 2005
rating: 5.9

This is another great route! Absolutely no harder than 5.9 and well worth the trip across the tyrol. Good times!

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jul 4, 2007
rating: 5.8-

A very fun route. I'd give it 4 stars if it was done on gear...which it easily could have been. But it's CCC. What else is new?

By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 5, 2007
rating: 5.8

J. my suggestion is that you take your rack across the tyro and do the route on gear. Just because there are bolts there doesn't mean you have to clip them. While you are over there give Crackside a go, it is a trad route to the right of Guppy. Trad is Rad!

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jul 6, 2007
rating: 5.8-

That would be a good idea and certainly one I would never have thought of!

Truth be told this is an excellent route, I highly recommend it to any one that rock climbs! However it could have been an absolutely stellar trad line. Should the bolts be pulled? NO WAY!! My reason for the comment is that on a crag with 2 previously established trad lines, why bolt one that would have been a classic trad line? Just food for thought for future route developers.

By Ryan Kane
From: Denver
Aug 28, 2007

60m rope IS NOT LONG ENOUGH to get you back to the pod. Be careful out there kiddos.
Sketchily yours,
Ryan

By Jeff Welch
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 14, 2008

This is how moderate sport routes should be. Great rock, fun moves, excellent equipping. Well worth the effort no matter what grade you climb!

By Buff Johnson
From: Coniferous, CO
Oct 25, 2009

Fun line, best to bring a 70.