Crackside Direct (var.) 

FA:  K.Trout, K.Miller, R.Kirkpatrick - '80s (updated by D.Mabe 3/05) Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9+ [details] Length:  1 pitch Views: 306 page views Submitted By: WiledHorse on May 18, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: South Creek Side Wall.

Description 

This is a variation to Crackside, but instead of stepping right when the arching crack ends, continue straight up on slightly more difficult face climbing (exciting!), clip a bolt, and beeline for the finger crack above. Then traverse left past a couple bolts to the rap anchors of Guppy. (120')

Rap 35m back to the pod belay where the tyrol is rigged. (You need either 70m rope or two ropes for the rappel.)

Crackside Direct provides an alternate way to eventually get back to the pod belay without having to reverse the traverse.

Eds. Note, in the event of wanting to/needing to bug off the top crux, you can traverse hard left into the Guppy finish.

Protection 

SR to #2 Camalot and a few runners. 4 protection bolts. Finishes on Guppy's anchors.