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Lower Capitalist Crag
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Venture Capital 

5.11b

   

FA: Vaino Kodas & Mary Zuvela, 2004
Type: Sport
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 170 page views

Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 14, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: Downsizing and Venture Capital.

Photo by Vaino Ko...



Description 

There is a route (at least since '04) here L of Stroh's Light with black hangers that has not apparently been submitted as a route to the database. Thought it was Stroh's Light until I looked at the rock photo. It is fun & challenging for us overweight, middle-aged climbers with high weight-to-strength ratios.

It starts on the ledge above Lunchmoney's top anchors, probably 15 ft away, and has a 2 bolt anchor at its base. You can approach via Lunchmoney or Cheap Labor (then traverse R) or up the exposed, loose ledge past Stroh's & Stroh's Light.

Start up with 2 pockets and pop up to a ledge. Find a reachy start off the big ledge. Fire up a stretch of small holds & a more-strenuous-than-it-looks section to a long reach off slippery footholds to a thank-goodness hold. Finish in a small pod with a 2 bolt anchor with links/chains. Closely bolted, thanks. Rap.


Protection 

7 QDs, something for anchors.



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By WiledHorse
From: NoGo
Apr 28, 2005

Leo. nope. not one of mine. It looks pretty fun though! Is it in-line enough with Lunchmoney to do as one long pitch? I will check it out...

Also, last time I was there, I noticed a pair of bolts around the corner from Strohs. Looks like someone is working on a new one.

By the way, I stripped the hangers off of Strohs Lite, because I [didn't] think the route was that great.

-DarrenMabe

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2005

The name of this route is "Venture Capital", 11a, first ascent by Vaino Kodas and Mary Zuvela, 2004.

See http://vainokodas.com/climbing/coroutes/capitalist.html