BETA PHOTO: Some of the newer routes on Little Eiger. Bush Ad...
Description
Thanks to Scott Bilyeu for all the help with cleaning. We must have brought down a ton of crap rock in the first 15 feet of the climb.
Start in the corner to the right of Busch Gardens, and then climb steep, fractured rock past three bolts. At the fifth bolt, undercling and step right onto the face, note the mystery vintage 60s piton (Layton Kor and company?) in the undercling (Sick!). Cruise up to the base of the headwall and climb past four bolts on overhanging face, use the arete to finish.
The anchor is equiped with steel biners for your lowering pleasure. Please be careful in the first corner as there still may be dangerous blocks, belay well off to the left side.
Protection
12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor equiped with steel carabiners.
Ledge fall potential getting to last bolt. I counted 13 bolts total.
The top anchors (with 7 feet of chain) are set in a hollow-sounding boulder. If ya think it's solid, recall the 1400+ tons of rock that fell further up the Canyon...
This route was scary. It was all choss. I was not impressed. When I thought I finally got onto safe rock, I got to the "anchors", which are both placed in a big loose boulder. This seems like an accident waiting to happen.
The anchors seemed solid enough, but then again I did not investigate it that much. Scary? Not really it's bolted where it needs to be. My only problem with it is the last bolt is stupid. It's fairly obvious to turn the corner at the arete and run up to the anchors that way skipping the last bolt. Run out? Maybe, but we are talking 5.6.
I climbed this route maybe 5 or 6 weeks ago and think that enough has been said to warn the wary. I always figure new routes will be a little loose (and so are old routes and mountain routes...it's just part of being outdoors). If you don't like some bolts, just skip 'em. If the anchor bothers you, burn a few biners and rap off the next few down. The bolts are already in, and I think it's nice to be able to spread out the climbers. Time will sort out the better routes, so I'd say leave it alone if you haven't already taken direct action.
Climbed Naked Hedge on 8-14-05. Bolts and anchors still in place. GOOD! Not sure what all the complaining is about here, but people must be smoking crack. There is nothing wrong with that route at all! If you don't use the big, blocky flakes on the right of the first 30 feet, the climbing is excellent through this section. The arete section is somewhat contrived, in that you have to avoid obvious left stems to keep the difficulty level up. The holds are a little sandy down low, but there is no loose rock. I didn't inspect the anchor boulder. If there is a true problem with the anchor security, then move it higher onto better rock, but there is no good reason to close this route. Not the best of the new ones, but worth a star.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jul 12, 2006 rating: 5.10c
The route has cleaned up OK after 1 year+ of existence. No big deal for loose rock. Yes- it was obvious to go up around the arete. After doing that I went back down and forced it to the left so it was "steep" and "slopey" but whatever. The route is probably 10c if you climb the arete to the left side but don't use the left wall behind you, which is the only loose part. The bolt-count was a little odd- I found myself skipping 1/2 of the tightly spaced ones that were pretty hard to clip or just plain unnecessary. Busch Gardens and Bush Administration are better routes.
Did this route yesterday and thought it was good. When I moved to the third bolt, it looked like everyone was moving to the right. What I thought was the crux. I'm impressed with the routes that Thor has been putting up. I personally have never set a route, soo kudos to Thor. Thanks again.
RE: loose rock on this route - I did not find any significant amount today. A few loose ones, obviously not holds, about the size of a deck of playing cards. The rock in the first 30' or so looks unreliable, but I'm a fairly heavy guy and couldn't get anything to move on me, so game on. The anchors currently in place are solid. I had trouble rappelling the route and cleaning it simultaneously - the overhanging face puts you out from the rock, and the line wanders a bit. Thanks to Kor for putting up and cleaning a fun route.
Not a bad route. Rocks a little loose off the get, but the moves at the end make it worthwhile--the overhanging face is fun. Not every route can draw max stars... you're at Eiger... enjoy. Or go get roasted during the summer days on the Red Slab.