The crux is between the third and forth bolt. After the forth bolt climb 5.9 to the anchor.
This is a nice route and bolted to be a fairly low stress lead. I think this route will become very popular as it is not as run out as the other 5.10s on The Red Slab.
The route does not disturb MK '74, but the top anchors are at the top of MK '74. I don't know anyone who ever climbed MK '74 anyway. Do you?
By Drew Allan From: Denver & Aspen Aug 6, 2004 rating: 5.10b
This route is a good addition to Red Slab. I don't think it is quite as good as S&S to the left but it certainly merits two stars. You will want to stay a little left of the bolt line in an 8' minor crack/seam before the crux. Careful not to pull too hard on some small flakes at the crux or they will be gone. At the 6th bolt, you will see the old bolt of MK '74 and above this you will merge with that route. I certainly didn't see any worthy trad placements in this section of that route. The bolts are well spaced above the 4th and you can't see the anchors until you get there. Good moves on good stone.
I liked this route, though the rock was pretty dirty near the top. Lots of funky side-pull maneuvers. The anchor is a decent traverse to the left at the top, though I could have stayed to the right a bit too long while climbing. Not as difficult as most 10b routes I've climbed in the area, more of a mental challenge than a physical one, in my opinion.
The Red Slab
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