This is the right of the two distinctive cracks on the right side of the wall, the left one being Roadrunner. Despite the not-so-classic parts (bird poo, loose rocks, lichen) it is a super-sexy Clear Creek classic and not to be missed.From the ledge system, start under a fixed head and work up a funky crack to the cave. If you have a big reach you can place a good finger sized piece before committing to the moves at the fixed head. There are several questionable blocks and the gear is sometimes difficult to place, but can be solid with tricky cams, offset cams or tricky but bomber nuts.One could belay at the cave, or with careful rope management one can continue up the roof section.Traverse the huge roof with bomber pro and back clean if doing it as one pitch. Clip the bolt to keep your rope out of the crack and climb the beautiful overhanging crack to the nice summit ledge. There are several interesting anchor bolts at the ledge with the best ones being open cold-shuts. In my opinion the crux is not the OW, but the thin crack just above, unlike the guide book's topo.
Descent: Loose walk-off or rap with two ropes (it is possible to rap with a 60m and swing into the ledge, a 70m provides much more comfort, ! KNOT YOUR ENDS ! ).
casey bernal
Protection
Nuts, hexes, set of cams from micro to fist (double cams if doing it as one pitch). The crack undulates often and passive pro can be more bomber than SLCDs. A few runners. No OW pro necessary.
Is 30 aught 6 one of the two cracks on the right hand side of the crag? One has a huge roof on P. 2 and the one to its left has what looks like an overhanging hand crack for its second pitch. I did the first pitch of the crack on the left up to a three piton anchor with slings and it was decent and the second looked awesome but wet...beta???, I lost my guidebook....
The right hand crack is 30 aught 6, 11b and the upper pitch looks awesome. The first pitch looks like choss. The 1st pitch of Road Runner is quite good though and is more like 10-, not 11d as suggested in Rolofson's guide.
By Darren Mabe From: Goulder, CO Aug 2, 2004 Gear Alert
7/30/04:installed 3/8" x 3" bolt with chain (primed and painted) to existing two cold shut rap anchor. One of the two existing bolts can be spun in its hole by fingers (try it) and is sticking out 1/4" the other one is ok.
Excellent line. Definitely a one pitch line with a 70m rope. Extend the two cams you'll likely place at the roof section and don't extend a runner when you clip the bolt after the roof. This will from going into the crack and keep the rope from having too much drag. Might save a #4 Camalot for the last piece before getting to the anchor. A #3 works too, but covers up the better jam.
Errr, tried doing this as a single pitch... and I don't recommend it. Basically, you can either screw your second with little protection on the roof traverse or give yourself rope drag from hell.
I don't know if there was a defined crux on this route, but the roof traverse has poor feet for a couple moves for shorter guys and once the roof is turned, the upper section gets pumpy (or was it because of my 40 lb rope drag?) I don't know why anybody bothered to mention the OW, cause, it ain't no OW.
There is a nut (#12 stopper?) right before turning the roof. It looks easily removable, but please don't (unless, of course, you put it there). This and the bolt help keeping the rope from getting stuck in the roof crack.
Wall of the 90s
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