Roadrunner is the left crack of the two classic crack routes on the far right side of Wall o' 90s (the right one being Thirty Aught Six). The route is typically done in one pitch although breaking it up into two can lighten the rack. (about 110' total) For ease of clarification, I will describe it as two:
The first 'pitch' works up a few crack systems of varied sizes (.10-), with several rests to the optional pin cluster belay. Back up these pins, because they are between a few scary blocks(and they are probably 30 years old...) There used to be a webbing nest at these anchors for rapping, but I removed a couple of the loose pins awhile ago, along with the webbing and would not recommend using this anchor as a rap anchor.
Second 'pitch' starts underneath the big roof, traverses left and fires up to the crux. (FYI, from the stance underneath the roof, you can escape left to the top anchors of Black and Tan.) The sporty crux (.12a) is protected by a few pins and then continues up the *steep* crack (.10+/.11-) thin hands, hands, fist. The pin at the crux held several of my falls, and was backed up by a bomber nut. The route ends at a two bolt rap anchor (where the three bad pins and UV-eaten sling used to be -- replaced with consent from FA). You can BARELY rap back to the ledges with a 60m, although I would suggest lowering eachother.
I give this route 3 stars, because there is not many other harder, trad lines in Clear Creek, other than Brennivin and Naked Kill. I think other climbers would agree that Roadrunner (and 30 aught 6) are the CCC of CCC ('Country Club Cracks' of Clear Creek Canyon).
Protection
Set of stoppers (#6-#12), Set of Aliens, #.5, (2)#.75, (2)#1, #2, #3, #3.5/#4 Camalots, couple hexes. Several old pins scatter the route, clip them with caution. QDs, runners. 2 bolt rap anchor.
Historical note: Steve Weaver and I aided a line on this wall (Roadrunner, I believe; possibly the FA) on July 20, 1969 -- the day Neil Armstrong first stepped on the moon. I like the "Wall of the 90's" name, which for me carries a bit of hidden humor.
I'm pretty sure the left-hand crack is Roadrunner. The roof above the slings goes at 12a and the handcrack above it is easier (although pumpy after the strenuous crux). I don't know what the rt.-hand crack is. They're the best lines on that wall though, in my worthless opinion; everything else is kinda weak and overgraded.
I think that the names Road Runner and 30.06 are reversed. I was with Jeff Achey (around 1980) when he free climbed what is now considered to be Roadrunner. He called it 30.06 because somebody was shooting a rifle nearby while we were climbing. Jeff lead it without trouble and called it 5.11. The crack on the right used to be called Roadrunner (now called 30.06) was climbed often in the 70s and 80s. These routes are both great regardless of what you call them.
Wall of the 90s
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