Squeeze Play 

I broke a hold, the side pull at the 2nd to last draw. But then I sent it without any new holds.

I find this climb to be a highly overlooked route at the Primo Wall. While it does use the "cup" crimp on Sucking...and the crimp around the arete near the top of Public Solitude, the movement is exciting with two sweet, varied and creative cruxes. Being that I'm not a 14 climber, anything in the 13 range takes me a while to work, so I can probably honestly say I've worked on this longer than anyone else.

Following is my beta for both cruxes: After clipping the third bolt from the "crimp rail" with the left hand, return to the crimp, throw out right and squeeze the large pinch (hence the name of the route, as well as its location) with your right, bring left foot up, smear right on the face below the pinch, drop left knee a bit and reach left hand up to good crimp, reset feet, reach right hand up to "cup" hold, clip, bring feet up, pull up several feet to a very hard to see quarter sized quartz two finger crimp with your left, bring right foot up high to the good left-hand crimp on the face, reach right hand over and several inches above the left hand to a better crimp, reset left foot, throw out left to good sloper. Upper crux: from the good sloping rail send left foot out over into the Public Solitude area, reach left hand around the corner to the good "shared" crimp, reset right foot, reach up with the right hand into the sloping slot under the roof, reset right foot, throw out to good side pull near the last bolt with the right, left hand pinches upper arete (left foot comes off), reset left foot to the shared crimp and get a decent kneebar (this always seemed to pinch a nerve in my leg, so beware), move left hand up to nearly non-existent sidepull high up on the left, slap right hand higher up on the side-pull, bring right leg up to slot under roof, throw for the knob that starts the crack to the left of the bolts.

Chris' beta is quite good -- the only thing I would add is that it's very difficult to clip the last bolt. I couldn't clip it. I took the big whip many times throwing for the "exit" hold before finally sending. Excellent route -- kudos to Steve Danboise and Steve Hong for this late (2004) addition to the crag.