Aries starts between Mounty and Cheap Labor at the Lower Capitalist area. Start from the ledge, opening with some devious sloping face moves past the first 2 bolts (old version, see update below!) to a bulge. A few thin moves past the 4th bolt (5.10) gets you exciting climbing just right of the Mounty flake.
Beeline to the shallow, stemming dihedral underneath the anchors.
Protection
10 protection bolts. Bring a few long draws for #6 and 7. 2 bolt rap anchor.
Caution
Addendum: if you happen to belay from the threaded hole below Cheap Labor, you may find your 60m rope slipping through your belay device just before you belay your partner to the ledge...40 feet above the river!
UPDATE
July 9, 2009. the first two bolts have been moved a few feet to the left, making the grade more consistant with the rest of the route. Goes up the sloping rail now.
By Matt Juth From: Evergreen Oct 7, 2003 rating: 5.11c
As Darren stated the best, finish is Mounty. The direct line would result in some bodily harm unless that piece was glued in by a miracle. The middle section is much easier, but a lot of fun.
6 feet of hard climbing just after the first bolt (ankle-threatening) followed by a bunch of easy climbing to the anchors.This route didn't do much for me - you'll get more climbing,more tricky moves, and more interesting stone from Cheap Labor or Lunchmoney, both of which are excellent.
I found myself wondering why. The first twenty feet are interesting, but the real distinctness of the climb seems to peter out at that point. It works as a variation to either of the adjacent climbs, but neither really needs a more difficult start. Once again, a couple of TCUs will nicely get you to the third clip. Overall: okay with an interesting entry.
10 protection bolts and two bolt rap anchor on the ledge at 100'. Stay left getting to bolt 2, don't get too suckered by the face; use the sloping rail. This keeps the route at 5.10+/11-. Bring a long draw for bolt #6 and #7. Finishes up the face to the right of the Mounty dihedral.
This route confuses me. To start straight up the face following the bolt line is easily .11+, which then peters out into nice 5.10 climbing. If you use the sloping rail to the left, the bolts seem to far out right to be safe for clipping positions. I think that the two bolts moved over to the left a foot or two would keep this route sustained at the grade (.10+/11-), and a lot more fun for the many leaders who look up and think the route looks fun, but are dissuaded by the blank looking start and the trouble they see many a .12 climber having on the opening moves. I would suggest moving the bolts, or adding some, to the left of the existing ones so leaders at this grade can enjoy the climb.
I agree, Jay. I have never been happy how those two clips ended up, and the opening moves in general. (Actually is one of my least favorite routes I bolted.) When I get a chance, I will drag my drill over there and move the start to the left.
Moved the starting two bolts last night to the left. Now you can safely start the route using the rail features, makes the grade a bit more consistent with the rest of the route.
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