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Lower Capitalist Crag
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Aries 

5.10c/d

   

FA: Darren Mabe
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 179 page views

Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Oct 3, 2003


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Daniel Alonso climbing Aries


Description 

Aries starts between Mounty and Cheap Labor at the Lower Capitalist area. Start from the ledge, opening with some devious sloping face moves past the first 2 bolts (crux) to a bulge. A few thin moves past the 4th bolt (5.10) gets you exciting climbing just right of the Mounty flake.

Beeline to the shallow, stemming dihedral underneath the anchors.


Protection 

10 protection bolts. bring a few long draws for #6 and 7. 2 bolt rap anchor.


Caution 

Addendum: if you happen to belay from the threaded hole below Cheap Labor, you may find your 60m rope slipping through your belay device just before you belay your partner to the ledge...40 feet above the river!



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By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Oct 7, 2003
rating: 5.11c

As Darren stated the best, finish is Mounty. The direct line would result in some bodily harm unless that piece was glued in by a miracle. The middle section is much easier, but a lot of fun.

By richard magill
Jul 16, 2004

6 feet of hard climbing just after the first bolt (ankle-threatening) followed by a bunch of easy climbing to the anchors.This route didn't do much for me - you'll get more climbing,more tricky moves, and more interesting stone from Cheap Labor or Lunchmoney, both of which are excellent.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 29, 2004
rating: 5.11b

I found myself wondering why. The first twenty feet are interesting, but the real distinctness of the climb seems to peter out at that point. It works as a variation to either of the adjacent climbs, but neither really needs a more difficult start. Once again, a couple of TCUs will nicely get you to the third clip. Overall: okay with an interesting entry.

By Darren Mabe
From: Goulder, CO
Jun 28, 2005

This route was "updated".

10 protection bolts and two bolt rap anchor on the ledge at 100'. Stay left getting to bolt 2, don't get too suckered by the face; use the sloping rail. This keeps the route at 5.10. Bring a long draw for bolt #6 and #7. Finishes up the face to the right of the Mounty dihedral.