This route is a 2 bolt variation to Monkey shine (5.10d). Start in a overhanging dihedral and make some fun stem moves to the apex of the roof. Make a big move to a crimp on the left, back right to a sloper, and a good crimp marks the end of the hard part.
This is a good route, if you are looking for your first 5.12 redpoint. The hard part is short and near the ground, while the rest of the route is 5.10.
Although the crux is low, the 5.10 roof is very fun. Huge holds and long moves keep your attention. The route after the roof is easier but I really enjoyed it. Don't psyche yourself out regarding the third clip, the climbing is easy. JM
This route is the route to send your first 12 on lead. The first two clips are the crux and if you get scared there and can easliy reach them with a stick clip. After the crux grerat route!
The start to Monkey Pause is actually awkward and strange. There are a lot of 12a's in Shelf road with more straightforward moves that would make a more rewarding experience. Monkey Pause is certainly a good route, but like a lot of Alan Nelson's routes, this one needs a lot of power in the opening and the sequience through these moves is not all that easy to decipher. Pro is fine; you won't get hurt trying.
The Monkey House
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