A great route and far enough away from the road to be enjoyable.
This route is downstream from the main Primo Wall cliff. Pass the main wall, and then pass a slab (with 5.9 and 12b routes) until you reach a wall that is almost perpindicular with the river. Someone wrote "Ken T'ank" in chalk at the base of the route. The upper portion of this wall has very cool wave shapes. Also look for a small bush halfway up the wall.
Route moves up through thin crimps to a toss to a sloper. Midsection of the route is jugs leading to a great rest. Then finish up through bearhug moves as you slap 2 aretes. Very interesting movement and one of the better routes I've climbed at Clear Creek.
Midway up the route, there are a few bolts diverging off to the left. Looks like a variation that is much harder and I'm not sure if it's completed.
I did the first ascent of this route a few years ago. I did not bolt it but the equipper quit climbing and said have at it. Originally called "Fission" in Rolofson's Clear Creek guide. I don't know where Ken T'ank's came from but I don't care. A good route
Jim, sounds like you did the FA. Did you name the route anything? I named it Ken T'ank based on the name that was written on chalk at the base of the route. That name may refer to the left variation. I don't know. I think in Rolofson's guide the route was called listed as "Fission (AKA: Ken Tanks)".
I believe the route was bolted by Tim from Boulder, Hank Caylor and Ken Kenny got the FA after it was bolted, hence the name blending in the three equippers together.
This is a really great route - probably one of the most fun that I have done at this grade in Clear Creek - the movement is superb. The chalked Ken T'ank at the bottom says 12+, that would be a little stouter than the route seemed going through the right set of bolts. The left variation? looks somewhat harder than .12d. It would be nice to know what the left line is. All in all, this one is well worth doing.
By Bill Ballace From: Wheat Ridge , CO Jul 21, 2007 rating: 5.12c
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