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Wild Child pitch 3 + 4 

Wild Child 

5.11c

   

FA: Thor Kieser
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 130 feet
Views: 259 page views

Submitted By: Thor Kieser on Jan 1, 2002


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Description 

The route starts on a platform about fifty feet to the left of the huge pegmatite dyke that splits Mission wall vertically. The first pitch is well protected 5.9+ and the crux is pulling over a right facing corner roof about half way up. Eight or nine bolts plus anchors. The moves are fun and it's the safest bolting on Mission Wall so far.

Pitch two is incomplete but should be done within a few weeks. The second pitch is classic Clear Creek steep 11c jug hauling. Right now it ends on the grassy ledge where the two climbs to the left of Wild Child also end. There are no anchors on Wild Child's second pitch so you either have to traverse left to top of other routes or lower off top bolt of this route.

I intend Wild Child to be three to four pitches in length when it's finished.


Protection 

Pitch 1 (5.9+)(well protected) has eight bolts in 90 feet and anchors. Second pitch is not completed at this time but goes through a cool roof at 11c. About six bolts have been placed.



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By piz
Sep 25, 2002

Hey man, all the bolting on this wall is totally safe to lead. All bolts are placed at extremely large holds and all difficult sections have appropriate bolt placements. Remember, when you are ROCK CLIMBING (that is on rock) you are not in a gym, therefore there will not be bolts every two feet to clip. Lead climbing is an art and should be practiced on more tame ground. Accidents happen because people make poor decisions, not because bolt locations. If you are on a 5.11 route and can't climb 5.8 without much thought then maybe you should practice more before trying harder routes. I have done your first pitch and thought to myself, why was this route opened and not cleaned it is more unsafe then any other the others for the belay and the leader. I could go on all day but I won't, lets just say you do it your way and I'll do it mine.

piz : )

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 2, 2002

As of october '02, this route is dirty and loose. The second pitch especially. Be careful up there. Having said that, the first pitch is a nice warm-up with a cool crux move half way up. 5.9+ with a bolt right there in your face. The rest of the pitch is easier 5.7-5.8 on big holds. It is run out for clear creek standards. There are good stances and hands for each clip save the first one. Certainly not a beginner lead. The second pitch goes through a roof with way cool position and well bolted. I call it 5.11a/b. From there you get onto a big ledge and then have to pull over another bulge on thin moves, again bolts everywhere you need them. I pulled on the draws through this section after I pulled off a large block and got spooked but it looks like mid to hard 5.11. The rest is much easier. This pitch needs a lot of cleaning work. Again becareful. The belay is protected from falling stuff by the big roof. This will be a very fun route once cleaned up and made a little safer for all.

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 7, 2002

I am aware that the route needs cleaning and will get to it in the spring.

The second pitch is now complet but not cleaned.

Please be very careful if you climb the 2nd pitch.It'll get better in the spring I promise - Thor

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 16, 2003

as of spring 03, route still dirty and loose....

spaces between the bolts wouldnt seem run out if it were solid rock. Thor, I have some brushes and crow bar you could borrow !?

on the top of the 1st pitch, at the 3 bolt anchor, the two lowering rings should be on the bottom two bolts, not the side two bolts..

By Thor Kieser
Jun 8, 2004
rating: 5.11a

We did some cleaning on Wild Child and its better now. THe second pitch is very cool and worth doing. at 5.11a. Hopefully this summer we will get to the third pitch.

By Thor Kieser
Aug 30, 2004
rating: 5.11a

The second pitch is now clean. This is an awesome and rerally fun pitch with two cruxes. The first crux is a 5.10 c roof with a heel hook and small dyno to a jug on the lip and a second dyno to a crack over the lip. The second crux is 11a (hint: reach left twice).

By Dan Godshall
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 25, 2007
rating: 5.11b

Fun and challenging route. 1st, 2nd and 4th pitches are well worth doing. 3rd pitch unfortunately is dirty, mossy and loose in sections. Particularly the 3rd pitch v-slot roof crux is in bad shape...tread lightly and look carefully for the few good sections of rock to trust...

Dan Godshall